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Anchorage Hopping to Loreto & Isla Coronados Photo Log

May 11-18, 2013

Punta El Carrizalito was a day stop after leaving Agua Verde. There were hot springs, which aren’t quite so relaxing in 90 deg weather.

After a day stop at Punta El Carrizalito we arrived at Bahia Candeleros where the only highlight was Mother’s day at a resort.  That’s really all there is to say about this anchorage.  OK, I’ll say a little bit more about it… we will be back.  Not to the resort, but to the anchorage.

We only stayed in Bahia Chuenque one night, but it is a popular anchorage because its near Puerto Escondido for convenience, but not IN Puerto Escondido. It’s a north-facing bay just to the north of Puerto Escondido. I did kayak to shore and walk around a bit, and that’s when I snapped these photos. In the guidebook, the bay is called Bahia Chuenque, but I never heard it called that. Usually, it is called Juncalitoville, because the beach where there are some residences is called Playa Juncalito.

We temporarily left the kid boat flotilla in order to go to Puerto Escondido for a couple of days.  We didn’t stay long here, because, well there’s not much here. We basically provisioned, got fuel, did laundry, and got our wifi fix. Puerto Escondido is a huge natural hurricane hole, so it was also good to go in and check it out should we ever need to retreat there for protection from the weather.

Isla Carmen is a large island off of Loreto, and Puerto Ballandra is a west-facing anchorage due East from Loreto.  We caught back up with the kid boats but then stayed an extra night after they all left, because after the rush of Puerto Escondido we weren’t in a hurry to move on.

Loreto has a fair amount of tourist traffic, but there isn’t a protected anchorage there. It’s basically open roadstead anchoring with protection only from due west. So, we stopped in for the day for some provisioning.


Logbook – May 11, 2013 (Agua Verde to Punta El Corrizalito to Bahia Candeleros)

Passage Log Highlights

  • 1017 Depart Agua Verde
  • 1112 SB Engine slipping – turned off
  • 1217 Arrive Punta El Carrizalito
  • 1620 Depart Punta El Carrizalito
  • 1819 Arrive Bahia Candeleros

Daily Notes:

  • Ran watermaker for 2-3 hours
  • Stop @ “hot springs”
  • Boys played “diaper”, D-snorkel, T-spearfished
  • T, boys soaked in hot springs

Edit: “Diaper” is a game the boys played with the Bellini kids when we used to charter for long weekends at Catalina Island.  The “diaper” is a life vest worn upside down so you can float seated right side up.

Agua Verde to Candeleros
Punta El Carrizalito was a day stop between Agua Verde and Bahia Candeleros
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Motoring with just the port engine between Agua Verde and Punta el Corrizalito
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Isla San Cosme (left) and Isla San Damien (right)
Carrizalito
The geography of Punta El Carrizalito
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The container in the water is a waterproof pet food container. The previous owners of Exodus left it on the boat, and we kept it even though we didn’t really have a use for it. Well, we found a use for it as a washing machine. We put our dirty boat rags in it with some detergent, threw it in the water, and told the boys to play with it. It worked OK, but we haven’t used it to wash our clothes in it yet.
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Anchored off Punta El Carrizalito, looking South.
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The boys sitting in the “hot tub”
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Tim relaxing
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Looks like chocolate mountains
Bahia Candeleros
The geography of Bahia Candeleros

Logbook – May 12, 2013 (Bahia Candeleros)

Daily Notes

  • Mother’s Day!  Day passes at the resort.  Food & drinks included.  Very slow wifi, too much food, and good company (sv Star Passage)
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The resort is the only thing in this bay, but it really doesn’t have very good water front views. There is a protected wildlife sanctuary there, so the resort is built behind that. It’s a beautiful resort though with several pools, and if you look down on the pools from one of the rooms on an upper floor you can see they are arranged in the shape of a turtle.
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The resort
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My view at the pool, enjoying wifi and bloody marys
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Exodus and Star Passage. The tiny sailboat to the right of Exodus is probably Fluenta’s sailing dinghy. It’s great, the kids can sail it around the anchorage

Logbook – May 13, 2013 (Bahia Candeleros to Bahia Chuenque)

Passage Log Highlights

  • 1545 Depart Bahia Candeleros
  • 1640 Whale and manta ray sighting
  • 1830 Arrive Bahia Chuenque

Daily Notes

  • Watermaker is the SSB noise source!!!  Listened to Sonrisa & Amigo nets.
  • Radio contact w/ Moontide & a 2nd boat that was a ketch w/ “Peter” aboard @ Bahia Candeleros
  • Short passage to Bahia Chuenque to catch up with other kid boat
  • Cocktails on Northern Passage.  Kid fun & games on Sweet Dreams
  • Amazing bioluminescence
Candeleros to Chuenque
It was a 2 hour 45 minute gennaker run from Bahia Candeleros to Bahia Chuenque.  Whale and Manta Ray sightings en route.
Bahia Chuenque
Bahia Chuenque is a North facing bay near Puerto Escondido

Logbook – May 14, 2013 (Bahia Chuenque to Puerto Escondido)

Passage Log Highlights

  • 1350 Depart Bahia Chuenque
  • 1515 Arrive Puerto Escondido

Daily Notes

  • Dolphins in the bay
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The desert mountains of Central Baja California
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Fluenta and Exodus
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Exodus and Sweet Dreams
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The kid boat flotilla at Bahia Chuenque

Logbook – May 15, 2013 (Puerto Escondido)

Daily Notes

  • Tim fixed SB engine
  • Laundry, groceries

(Edit: Seriously??? A single bullet about fixing the starboard engine?  Listed alongside laundry and groceries?  This was a huge deal.  It goes WAY back… probably the first symptom was when we first took possession of Exodus and were on transit between San Diego and Marina del Rey and we noticed that the wake of the SB engine was different than the Port engine.  It started really slipping when we were in La Paz, in fact, when we went to the fuel dock at Costa Baja Marina when we were rushing out of La Paz to catch the other kid boats Tim had to pull up to the dock with only one engine!  Basically, the cone clutch was slipping so the engine didn’t always engage the sail drive.  And Tim fixed it himself after watching a youtube video and after several visits to the marine shop at Puerto Escondido.  This was a big deal.)

Puerto Escondido
The geography of Puerto Escondido.  It’s a huge hurricane hole.  There are tons of moorings, but we chose to anchor due to our issues with the starboard engine.
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Gettin our wifi fix on at the Portobello restaurant at the marina. They actually made excellent super huge margaritas.
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Speaking of Giant Margaritas, this one came in an Iron Man cup

Logbook – May 16, 2013 (Puerto Escondido to Puerto Ballandra)

Passage Log Highlights

  • 0820 Raised anchor – hosed off at the dock
  • 0855 Depart Puerto Escondido
  • 1220 Arrive Puerto Ballandra

Daily Notes

  • D/T snorkeling
  • B/A surfing

(Edit: It was always nice to give Exodus a nice freshwater washdown.)

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Looking at the harbor entrance
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Steinbeck Canyon in the distance
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We anchored in the SW corner of the very large anchorage and this photo is looking NE at the two “windows” looking out into the Sea of Cortez
Puerto Escondido to Puerto Ballandra
We departed Puerto Escondido at 8:55 in the morning and arrived at Puerto Ballandra at 12:20, motoring the whole way.
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Brenden reeling in a catch
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Back with Star Passage!

Logbook – May 17, 2013 (Puerto Ballandra)

Daily Notes

  • Family snorkel
  • Met Bill and Sue form Sun Baby Too, told us about “Just a Minute” blog – Lagoon 380, 2008 Sea of Cortez.  Lots of info not in the guidebook
  • Get together on beach with drinks and snacks.  Met 3 Hour Tour & other boats.  Including another former NG employee.

(Edit: I don’t think we ever did look up that blog.  The “former NG employee” was a boat that later became famous from boat catastrophe crossing eastward from the Marquesas back to

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Exodus at anchor at Puerto Ballandra on Isla Carmen
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A small lagoon on shore
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Alex found the perfect walking stick
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Our kid boat friends had moved on but we stayed an additional night here, and glad we did because we met some new people at an appetizer and drinks pot luck on the beach
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Brothers at Puerto Ballandra
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Brothers at Puerto Ballandra

Logbook – May 18, 2013 (Puerto Ballandra to Loreto to Isla Coronados)

Passage Log Highlights

  • 0835 Depart Puerto Ballandra
  • 1105 Arrive Loreto
  • 1730 Depart Loreto
  • 1850 Arrive Isla Coronados

Daily Notes

  • Day trip to Loreto
  • Ran watermaker for 3 hours
  • Lunch @ Cafe Ole in Loreto, bought a directional wifi antenna.  Ferre Mar.  Groceries.

(Edit: That directional antenna was a blessing and a curse!  We could pick up wifi signals from shore, but as Exodus moved around the anchor we were constantly having to repoint it.  Why didn’t we just get data plans???)

Ballandra to Coronados
We departed Puerto Ballandra at 0835 and arrived at Isla Corondados at 1850 after a 6 hour 25 minute stop at Loreto for major provisioning.
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There is a small harbor for the fishing pangas
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View of the lighthouse behind the harbor
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The pier at Loreto
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Don’t they look ready for provisioning?
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It’s no La Paz Malecon, but it’s nice, nonetheless
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A nice shady walk street to the grocery store
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Loreto does boast the oldest California mission 
Isla Coronados
The geography of Isla Coronados
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Happy to be back with the other kids – we arrived at Isla Coronados and rushed ashore for the BBQ
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Just the boys
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Just the moms (Deanne, Liz, Kim)
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Playing on the beach at Isla Coronados

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