Fatu Hiva

April 15-20, 2014

We stayed in Hanavave (aka Bay of Virgins) on the Island of Fatu Hiva, and it was by far the most beautiful anchorage we’ve ever been to. It was an overnight upwind slog to get there, but totally worth it.

Depart Hanaiapa April 15 at 0830 – Arrive Hahatekuua at 0908. Depart Hahatekuua at (time not recorded) – Arrive Fatu Hiva April 16 at 0822.

Logbook – April 15, 2014 (Hanaiapa to Hahatekuua to Fatu Hiva)

Passage Log Highlights

0825 Engines on
0830 Depart
0908 Arrive Hahatekuua
(time not recorded) Depart Hahatekuua
1836 P engine off. Main (2 reefs) + genoa (1 reef)

The bay on the left is Hanaiapa, and the bay on the rigtht is Hahatekuua

April 16, 2014 (Hahatekuua to Fatu Hiva)

Passage Log Highlight

0713 P engine on
0751 SB engine on
0822 Arrive Fatu Hiva

Daily Notes

T – spearfish w/ Pete & Hugh (s/v Icarus II)
D – paddle to shore, let all the kids ride the paddle board
Party on LC
Norango is found! David, Lynn, Sianna (6 yrs)
Dinner on Exodus w/ LC, Icarus II, Norango

Seriously, this is our view as we approached the anchorage. We love our life.

Our first day there I paddle boarded around the breakwater to scope out the dinghy landing, and I was befriended by a bunch of kids who wanted to try the paddle board. I was with them for a couple hours, and I also let them use my camera, so these following pictures are from their eyes.

This little girl wanted to interact with me so bad, but alas, Je ne parle pas Francaise. She would jump in the water and then want my help back up onto the step, even though she was fully capable of doing it herself.

Email to family and friends dated April 16, 2014

Subject: Fatu Hiva

We had a crappy overnight passage from the north side of Hiva Oa down to Fatu Hiva. It was into the wind the entire way, but fortunately we were able to make it from the east end of Hiva Oa to here on a single tack. We just dropped anchor and the boys and I are about to do some schoolwork before Lady Carolina gets here and they want to go play. The anchorage is amazing. I keep hearing it’s the most beautiful in the Marquesas, maybe even French Polynesia, and it is living up to its billing. We will likely stay here a few days and enjoy some hiking and exploring. According to Charlie’s Charts it is rumored that this anchorage was originally named “Bey des Verges” (Bay of the Phalli) because of the shape of the rocky pillars that greet you at the entrance of the bay. However, the missionaries disapproved, and inserted an “i” making it “Bay des Vierges” (Bay of Virgins). All that may be irrelevant because in Marquesan it is called Baie Hanavave, which means “strong surf bay.” Seriously, I have no idea how photos will capture that massive beauty of this place. I was punished for even trying… while taking photos on the way in I dropped my lens cap overboard.

Love and miss you all,

-D.

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At 4/15/2014 4:37 PM (utc) our position was 10°27.92’S 138°40.05’W

Logbook – April 17, 2014 (Fatu Hiva)

Daily Notes

Hike to waterfall
Dinner on shore. 1700 XFP/person. Good food & entertainment

This is the school, what a view behind it, eh

Just a cow sitting by the side of the road

The boys let the crawfish give them “pedicures”

We paid to have a traditional Marquesan dinner, and for a bonus we were entertained with music

Logbook – April 18, 2014 (Fatu Hiva)

Daily Notes

T/S – Lobsters w/ the locals

Email to family and friends dated April, 18, 2014

Subject: Fatu Hiva Adventures

We are having a wonderful time here at Hanavave on the island of Fatu Hiva. Our first afternoon I went out on the paddle board and went over to check the situation at the dock (where could we tie up a dignhy? Where can we dump trash? Etc…) And the local kids asked me, in that clunky sign language that you use when you don’t speak each other’s languages, if they could try the paddle board. So, I seriously spent about an hour and a half with them while they all took turns trying the paddle board. They loved it! And as they got more and more comfortable with me they got more and more aggressive over who’s turn it was and kept looking to me to adjudicate. Communication was very difficult, since my French is horrible, and one of the girls only spoke a few words of English. However, I found out last night when I saw one of the boys again that he is learning Spanish in school so I was able to talk to him in Spanish! Then, after they got even more comfortable they started asking me for things and simply would not stop. Fishing line, hooks, pencils, notebooks, crayons, erasers. And of course all of this was communicated playing that sign language game again. Although, they did teach me a few words in French.

Yesterday we had a not too strenuous hike up to a waterfall and then we had dinner on shore. We had a very good Marquesan dinner for 1700 XFP per person (about $20 each) at someone’s house and they even brought out a guitar, bongo, and ukelele and provided some entertainment. A young girl probably 11 or 12 did some singing and dancing and she was quite spectacular. This morning, the husband, Jack, took Steve and Tim out fishing, and they are not back yet so I can’t wait to see what they catch.

There was a church service going on when we walked to dinner and the singing was very welcoming. We asked if it would be OK for us to come to Easter service, and they said yes, but told us we (the women) would need to cover our shoulders. There is a service Sat evening at 7pm and we may go to that one rather than Easter morning. It seems a night service might be a little more lively with the singing and all.

Love and miss you all,

-D.

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At 4/18/2014 5:15 PM (utc) our position was 10°27.92’S 138°40.05’W

Logbook – April 19, 2014 (Fatu Hiva)

Daily Notes