We had heard from other cruisers that they make it easy for you in Ha’apai, that they will let you clear in and out at the same time so that you can keep working your way down the island group without having to circle back to Pangai to clear out. As I was heading to shore, I met up with Jack and Camille, who had already made a visit to customs and were returning with one of the big snappers Jack had shot that morning. They explained to me that the guy at customs was balking at the idea of letting them clear in/out at the same time, that he was requiring them to leave Pagai and then come back to check out. So, they were going to “trade” the fish for being able to check out today. So, I latched on to them and hoped the customs guy would group me with them and let me clear out to. That took some convincing. But let me back up a bit… walking from the dock to the customs office with this huge fish was a bit awkward, because it got a lot of attention. Everyone wanted to see it and basically everyone wanted it. Jack said he was giving it to a friend and then they would want to know who the friend was. In the end I think the whole town knew that we were bringing a fish to the customs office. The guy in the office was amazed at the size of the fish and accepted the “trade” of fish for clearance eagerly. But then he told me that I would need to go to the next island and then come back to clear out. I basically begged that “I’m with them, we’re travelling together…” and eventually he relented.
The immigration office is right next to the customs office, and the ladies there had no problem checking us in and out. Some people said you didn’t even need to go to immigration, but the man at immigration in Neiafu very clearly told me that we did, so I followed his instructions.
As usual, figuring out what the actual rules are can be quite tricky in Tonga. What you are allowed to do can vary from day to day and official to official.
Gresham Family Exodus 