October 31 – November 7, 2015
Rotuma is administratively part of Fiji, but geographically and culturally it is totally separate. We only stayed 5 days but easily could have stayed a couple weeks.
Logbook – October 31, 2015 (Rabi to Rotuma)
Passage Log Highlights
- 1505 Engines on (Port engine no water. Turned off. Changed impeller, that fixed it
- 1605 Engines P engine on
- 1613 SB engine on
- 1640 engines off main + genoa
Daily notes
- T/D – before leaving went to shore to say good-bye, Teri brought us a lobster, shot w/ pole spear
Logbook – November 1, 2015 (Rabi to Rotuma)
Passage Log Highligts
- 0540 Main + genoa, wing and wing
- 1645 Fish on Dorado (2m)
- 1814 Main + genniker
Daily Notes
- 360 deg sunset
Email to Family and Friends dated Nov 1, 2015
Subject: Exodus – Late departure and downwind sailing
We got a bit of a late departure yesterday because when we started the port engine it decided to not spit out any water, which is very bad. It turns out that the cooling water intake impeller was, let’s just say tired, and needed to be replaced. Luckily, Tim had the spare and was able to swap it out quickly. As a bonus, while Tim was in the engine compartment one of the local guys from shore brought us a lobster for the passage. Brenden called dibs, but he’s a little bit crazy. The wind helped us out yesterday by going a little SE to make it easier for us to get up and around the NE corner of Vanua Levu, and since then it’s been dead downwind sailing. Exodus and crew love this point of sail. It’s not our fastest, but it’s definitely our most comfortable.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – November 2, 2015 (Rabi to Rotuma)
Passage Log Highlights
- 0301 Main + genniker
- 1115 SB engine on to speed up (realized we could make it before dark)
- 1114 P engine on to drop main
- 1207 Both engines off, spinnaker run!
- 1745 Engines on
- 1827 Engines off Rotuma
Daily Notes
- Thanks to the spinnaker, made it before sunset
- Huge ground swell in anchorage, warned by other boats, so we moved out. Rolly but OK
- Met David & Janet (Navire) & Sylvan (Boat name?)
Email to Family and Friends dated Nov 2, 2015
Subject: Exodus – Dorado!
No one would do the naked tuna dance yesterday, so we had to settle for a… Do-ra-do. Do-ra-do. Mahimahimahimahi Dol-phin Fish! We were trying to remember the last time we’d caught one, and we think it was back near Minerva Reef. So, tonight it’ll be grilled Mahi Mahi on the barbie! We’ve pretty much given up hope of having a chance of making it to Rotuma before nightfall today, so we’ll hove to and have a peaceful BBQ dinner at sunset. Right now we’re zipping along at 7.2 kts, but unfortunately, it’s in the wrong direction. Oh well. This is our first offshore passage that we’ve been on our own since our very first passage down from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas. The Mahi Mahi livened everyone’s spirits though. Well, except for mine, because we caught it on the reel (not a handline) and I really hate having to slow down under sail. So, Tim and I got into our usual “playful banter” of, “Slow Down, you’re killing me!” “I’m doing my best, I don’t know why you use the reels anyway!” “Well, I’m so sorry that catching fish annoys you so much!” Yeah, playful banter. Good times. There is now a fishing ban in effect for all fish except yellow fin tuna.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – November 3, 2015 (Rotuma)
Daily Notes
- Changed propane to tank #2
- Lazy morning then shore excursion to join the supply ship activity
- Caught in a torrential downpour
- Family shower in the rain
Email to Family and Friends dated Nov 3, 2015
Subject: Exodus – A race before sunset
As soon as I wrote the words yesterday that we had given up on arriving with daylight, the wind picked and we were flying along at 8-9 kts, but it was frustrating, because we weren’t quite pointed at our target, because our target was dead downwind, and we just don’t go that fast on that point of sail. Unless… we fly the spinnaker. Our spinnaker is not a light wind sail as some are. In fact, it won’t even stay full in less than 10 kts. However, the last time we flew it in 20 kts of wind, Tim ended up with a broken toe, but desperate times call for desperate measures, so out came the chute! The worst part of the whole operation was turning into the wind (and 2-3 m swells) to drop the main. We even got the spinnaker down without any drama. And thanks to the spinnaker, we were having safe arrival drinks in the cockpit as darkness fell. Well, first we took showers, because it is HOT and HUMID here.
The anchorage here is quite large, but there is only one small area that is typically protected from the trade wind swell. However, right now there is a huge ground swell coming in from the north, and when we arrived yesterday, we were warned by another boat here that the tiny, protected area is getting breaking waves sometimes. So, we opted to anchor out further, and although there is quite a large swell, it’s far superior to hoving to all night.
It’s raining now, but hopefully that let’s up so we can explore Rotuma a bit today.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Email to Family and Friends dated Nov 3, 2015
Subject: Exodus – Rain Showers
After a lazy morning on board for three of us, and dinghy repairs for one of us, we decided to venture ashore. The supply ship, that only comes once a month, was at the wharf and there were a lot of people crowded around, so we thought it would be a great opportunity to meet some of the people here. Everyone was very nice and friendly, and we found out that it’s not just a supply ship but also a passenger ship taking people to/from Suva. There were tons of kids on board, because there was a sporting tournament they were going to participate in. We were approached by many people curious of where we are from and how we like Rotuma so far, but later, as I reflected on all those we had spoken to and most were in some official capacity like police officer, marine safety person, self-designated yachtie chaperone, etc. So, I have to say my favorite person from yesterday was Freddy. Freddy is just an old guy who lives in the village who wanted to come and welcome us and find out about our story. He’s never left Fiji, and when Tim asked him if there was phone service on the island, I’m pretty sure he had no idea what he was talking about. Freddy seemed particularly interested in the boys, and later I had to chastise them because they didn’t engage at all. They were grouchy at us for making them go ashore, and they couldn’t see past that and give Freddy the interaction he so obviously wanted. Hopefully they will be more thoughtful next time. We were there talking to people for some time, so the boys went to run along the beach, an absolutely beautiful beach by the way. They came back to let us know the storm was coming, and by the looks of the sky they were right, so we ran to the dinghy, but it was too late, we got caught in the downpour on the way back anyway. So, already wet, we decided to take advantage of the torrential rain and have showers. Well, three of us anyway, the fourth spent the time setting up rain catchers so now our tanks and jerry cans are full.
The beauty of this island can not be overstated, and we haven’t even seen it in the sunshine yet. The people here are consciously and actively resisting development and tourism. This place could easily have resorts all over it, but they don’t want it that way, and you just have to respect that. Today, we will go pay our respects to the chief at the nearest village and then hopefully explore the island a little more.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – November 4, 2015 (Rotuma)
Daily Notes
- Reanchored
- Visit the village
- B/T spearfish w/ Sylvan (French boat)
- Drinks on Navire
Logbook – November 5, 2015 (Rotuma)
Daily Notes
- D – walk along beach and swim among black rocks
- D/T – dinghy scouting, trying to find the wreck, no luck
- Beautiful views around and between the small islands
- Kava party with Jonathan & Rakiti, music & fun
Logbook – November 6, 2015 (Rotuma)
Daily Notes
- D/T – set out to get to the market near gov’t building, met people along the way and ended up getting rides all the way around the island
- Met Bula & Betty, very nice
- “Cleared out” – no customs – TBV was right!
Email to Family and Friends dated November 7, 015
Subject: Exodus – Tuvalu Bound
Sadly, we departed Rotuma early this morning. We were really enjoying ourselves there and ideally we would have liked to stay for 3 or 4 more days, but the weather forecast wasn’t cooperating. If we didn’t leave today we could be stuck a week or longer waiting for wind again, and we really didn’t want to motor this leg of the journey. The next leg from Tuvalu to Kiribati puts us in the convergence zone, and we want to save the diesel for that. It’s a very nice sail so far, light enough wind to be comfortable but strong enough to go at a decent speed.
Rotuma has got to be one of the nicest places we’ve been. The geography reminded me more of Hawaii, with dramatic black volcanic rock and fine white sand beaches. And don’t get me started on the water temperature! It was a perfect 85 deg F, and I went swimming almost every day. We met some really nice people in the village nearest the anchorage and they invited us for a grog (kava drinking) and music. The people here are polynesian, not micronesian like the Fijians, and there is no tradition of sevusevu, but they like drinking the grog, and it was very relaxed and fun.
And it was also a relief to make some new cruiser friends, since we have separated from most of our usual gang. There were two other boats, and one of them is also on passage to Tuvalu and we are doing evening SSB checkins, so once again, we are not alone out here.
Yesterday, Tim and I set out walking to check out the Friday morning vegetable market. It is 12 Km from the anchorage, but we were told it’s easy to get a ride. We ended up meeting many people, accidentally getting a ride the other way around the island, and never did make it to the market. But no worries, people along the way gave us bananas, papaya, and kasava.
I am feeling really far away from everyone since I got so spoiled with internet in Fiji, so don’t hesitate to send us a note to say hello and let us know what’s going on with you from time to time.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Gresham Family Exodus 