The first night we arrived at Nanumea, there was loud music playing and lots of activity at the dock. We had no idea what was going on, but as the music kept going into the night and then all night into the morning, we figured these Nanumeans must really know how to party. The only time the music stopped was briefly in the evening and again in the morning for the church bells to ring.
We finally made our way to shore at about 10am the next morning, and we found people dressed somewhat ceremonially and they had decorated the wharf area very intricately with woven palm fronds. There was even a woven welcome sign saying “Talofa” which is hello in Tuvaluan. So, after joking with the people that we appreciate the elaborate welcome party they prepared for us, we learned there was a tourist boat coming within the hour. After walking around we met more and more people and we learned that they had prepared a huge feast for the tourists, and of course we were welcome to join them. After getting over the shock that there was actually going to be a cruise ship here, in Nanamea, which is possibly the most remote place we’ve come in our entire journey. We learned that the last time they had tourists here, other than the few cruisers each year, of course, was back in 2010. So, this is a rare event. You could feel the excitement among the people of the village, and we decided to make the most of it. We went back to the boat and dressed up and then went back and enjoyed the party. One local lady I met commented to me that, “it seemed like you really understand our customs.” She was referring to the way we were dressed in contrast to a lady from the cruise ship who showed up in bikini bottoms (they were going snorkeling after all). Someone had to give her a sulu to wear, because they said she couldn’t go in the meeting hall like that.
Coconuts for the tourists
Who needs a straw?
After enjoying coconuts at the wharf, we all made our way to the meeting hall, which was also nicely decorated with palm fronds. They gave a presentation of speeches, dancing, singing, and the feast was very well done, and we piled our plates high. The finale was a traditional song/dance called Fatale. Everyone sits close in loose circles around each other. There are drums and men and women singing and they start out quiet and slow and it gradually builds and gets faster, and it was quite captivating, quite moving. I loved it and I was so glad for the cruise ship at that point, because we probably wouldn’t have seen that otherwise. But at the end it was almost embarrassing how few of the tourists were still there. They only had a few hours on the island, so they were all wandering around or snorkeling or whatever. Very few of them seem interested at all in the people. Anyway, we were very glad to be included, and now we are very glad to have the island and the village to ourselves.
Ready for the feast – with True Blue V
Traditional dancing
The Fatale
After the tourist boat came and left, things seemed to quiet down a bit, and the people of the village got to enjoy all of their leftovers from the feast. We walked around a bit more and made a visit to the church in order to climb the steeple and check out the views. They were spectacular views, but the windows were dirty and it was hot as hell up there!
A view from the church steeple
Exodus in the lagoonThe first night we arrived at Nanumea, there was loud music playing and lots of activity at the dock. We had no idea what was going on, but as the music kept going into the night and then all night into the morning, we figured these Nanumeans must really know how to party. The only time the music stopped was briefly in the evening and again in the morning for the church bells to ring.
We finally made our way to shore at about 10am the next morning, and we found people dressed somewhat ceremonially and they had decorated the wharf area very intricately with woven palm fronds. There was even a woven welcome sign saying “Talofa” which is hello in Tuvaluan. So, after joking with the people that we appreciate the elaborate welcome party they prepared for us, we learned there was a tourist boat coming within the hour. After walking around we met more and more people and we learned that they had prepared a huge feast for the tourists, and of course we were welcome to join them. After getting over the shock that there was actually going to be a cruise ship here, in Nanamea, which is possibly the most remote place we’ve come in our entire journey. We learned that the last time they had tourists here, other than the few cruisers each year, of course, was back in 2010. So, this is a rare event. You could feel the excitement among the people of the village, and we decided to make the most of it. We went back to the boat and dressed up and then went back and enjoyed the party. One local lady I met commented to me that, “it seemed like you really understand our customs.” She was referring to the way we were dressed in contrast to a lady from the cruise ship who showed up in bikini bottoms (they were going snorkeling after all). Someone had to give her a sulu to wear, because they said she couldn’t go in the meeting hall like that.
Coconuts for the tourists
Who needs a straw?
After enjoying coconuts at the wharf, we all made our way to the meeting hall, which was also nicely decorated with palm fronds. They gave a presentation of speeches, dancing, singing, and the feast was very well done, and we piled our plates high. The finale was a traditional song/dance called Fatale. Everyone sits close in loose circles around each other. There are drums and men and women singing and they start out quiet and slow and it gradually builds and gets faster, and it was quite captivating, quite moving. I loved it and I was so glad for the cruise ship at that point, because we probably wouldn’t have seen that otherwise. But at the end it was almost embarrassing how few of the tourists were still there. They only had a few hours on the island, so they were all wandering around or snorkeling or whatever. Very few of them seem interested at all in the people. Anyway, we were very glad to be included, and now we are very glad to have the island and the village to ourselves.
Ready for the feast – with True Blue V
Traditional dancing
The Fatale
After the tourist boat came and left, things seemed to quiet down a bit, and the people of the village got to enjoy all of their leftovers from the feast. We walked around a bit more and made a visit to the church in order to climb the steeple and check out the views. They were spectacular views, but the windows were dirty and it was hot as hell up there!
A view from the church steeple
Exodus in the lagoon
Gresham Family Exodus 