December 18-31, 2015
Abemama was an overnight sail SE from Tarawa and it was our destination for Christmas
Logbook – December 18, 2015 (Tarawa to Abemama)
Passage Log Highlights
- 1349 Engines on
- 1450 P engine off. Main (1 reef) + genoa
- 1505 SB engine off. Squall
- 1612 P engine on
- 1658 P engine off
- 1743 P engine on
- 2020 P engine off
Daily Notes
- Nothing to report
Logbook – December 19, 2015 (Tarawa to Abemama)
Passage Log Highlights
- 0313 Main (1 reef) + genoa, wing/wing
- 0600 Main (1 reef) + genoa, wing/wing
- 1115 Engines on
- 1135 Engines off Ambemama
Daily Notes
- Trip Summary: Duration 21:46. Log Miles 3880-3796 = 84. Route Miles = 90. Avg VMG = 4.13. Eng hr – Port – 3:23, SB – 0:15, Both – 1:21. Generator hr – 1:36
- Visited by Tanro in his outrigger sailing canoe just after anchoring
- Safe arrival drinks + Scattergories
Email to Family and Friends Dated December 19, 2025
Subject: Exodus – Overnighter to Abemama
We arrived at Abemama earlier today, which as an atoll in Kiribati about 90 miles SE from Tarawa. We were able to sail most of the way, which is good, but it certainly wasn’t the kind of sailing where you can just set the sails and forget about them. There were squalls and wind shifts, in fact I think we sailed at almost every point of sail during that short passage.
We were very happy to leave Tarawa. I think I mentioned a bit about Betio in my last email… I mean, it’s the first place we’ve been in the South Pacific where I felt a little uncomfortable walking around at night. And don’t even think about swimming in the lagoon, because the water is so gross. No swimming and no running the water maker. Luckily it poured rain day before yesterday, so we were able to catch a bunch of rainwater to do the laundry. I would like to say something positive about Tarawa, so I will mention the small egg farm we found where we could get fresh eggs, and by fresh, I mean gathered right out from under the hens. They had what looked like newly constructed, very sturdy chicken coups with a total of about 85 chickens. It was very clean and the chickens all looked healthy. The feed troughs were tires sliced in half sideways and suspended from the ceiling, so the feed was always up off the ground. One of the women we spoke to there is educated as a lawyer and her English was very good and she was able to give us a few more tips about shopping in Betio. The hens lay about 60 eggs/day and curiously, most of their customers are Chinese. We went 3 days in a row to buy all we could and share amongst all the cruising boats. It was a nice little family business, and I really hope they continue to have success. Also, I should mention that a group of cruisers hired a truck and went for a tour of other islets, and they said there were some really nice places, they even went to a farm and got some fresh veggies. I passed on that outing, because I can only take so many days in a row of big group outings. Luckily, my friend brought me back some bok choy, pumpkin, and fresh basil, and it was like Christmas.
Speaking of Christmas… we made a tough decision to bail on the organized Christmas Day extravaganza with all the other boats, so we are here in Abemema with just True Blue V. We were both feeling like we needed/wanted something a little more low key, so here we are.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – December 20, 2015 (Abemama)
Daily Notes
- Lazy Sunday. EOS II arrived.
- B – fever
- Alex – impetigo?
Logbook – December 21, 2015 (Abemama)
Daily Notes
- Visit to village with TBV. Walk to other side of atoll
- T/Craig/Slade/Tanro – spearfishing
Logbook – December 22, 2015 (Abemama North Anchorage to Bike)
Passage Log Highlights
- 1139 Engines on
- 1155 SB engine off, genoa
- 1331 SB engine on
- 1346 Engines off Bike
Daily Notes
- D/Leann go ashore, try to find policeman. Found only a man with very limited English
- Moved anchorages
- T/Slade – spearfish at pass
Logbook – December 23, 2015 (Abemama Bike)
Daily Notes
- T/Slade spearfish, A/B dinghy drivers – dog tooth!
- D – walk on beach with EOS II, met the locals, no English
- Happy hour/sushi on Exodus
Logbook – December 24, 2015 (Abemama Bike)
Daily Notes
- Steady 25-30 kt W-NW
- Xmas Eve pizza tradition
Email to Family and Friends Dated December 24, 2025
Subject: Exodus – Merry Christmas Eve
Merry Christmas Eve to all! We are still at Abemama, and we’ve been anchored off of a small island near the pass for a couple days. It hasn’t been the flattest of all places to anchor, but it was easy access for Tim and Slade, Tim’s new spearfishing boyfriend, and yesterday they came back with a dogtooth tuna! Needless to say, we had a great evening last night of sashimi, seared tuna, and wine with our new friends on the boat EOS II.
Yesterday, True Blue V dropped a bomb on us as they decided at the last minute to leave Abemama yesterday so they could clear out of Kiribati today and head up to The Marshalls. It was a combination of weather forecast and the fact that their Kiribati visas expire sooner than ours, and it all made rational sense, but that doesn’t mean it’s not disappointing to not be with them on Christmas. Although, we still have the girls from EOS II, who made Tim his sparkle box for his birthday, so all is not lost.
Being Christmas eve we are about to make our traditional personal pizzas. We are wishing everyone happiness and relaxed family time during this time of year that, as I recall, can get quite hectic back home.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – December 25, 2015 (Abemama Bike to Main Village)
Passage Log Highlights
- 1007 Engines on
- 1123 Engines off
Daily Notes
- Nothing in the logbook (on Christmas!)
Logbook – December 26, 2015 (Abemama Main Village)
Daily Notes
- Village dance off all day
Logbook – December 27, 2015 (Abemama Main Village to North Anchorage)
Passage Log Highlights
- 1046 Engines on
- 1226 Engines off
Daily Notes
- Rainy day, lots of wind
- Moved anchorages
Email to Family and Friends Dated December 27, 2025
Subject: Exodus – Christmas Feast and Traditional Dancing
I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas! Our day started out with an hour sail across the lagoon in order to be in a more protected spot when the wind shifted. The weather seems to not care that it’s Christmas and that we just want to sit, relax, eat and drink. Then EOS II came over for our Christmas party, and they brought their Christmas tree with them to give Exodus a more festive vibe. And by Christmas tree I of course mean a palm frond wrapped in purple boas. Our feast consisted of beef and papaya stew, lasagna, cous cous, boxed mashed potatoes, canned green beans, and homemade dinner rolls (which Brenden referred to as “fluffy clouds of yumminess,” which made my day!) The only gifts exchanged on Exodus this year were with EOS II, and all gifts were either a funny gag gift or something found on the boat or made (like the lego butterfly Brenden made for the girls, complete with moveable wings). We had an early meal and then lounged around on the net up front until the sun went down.
Yesterday morning, we were visited by the local policeman, and so we finally officially checked into Abemama and showed him our letters from customs and immigration giving us permission to be here. We only have permission for 10 days, but he says it’s fine if we stay longer, which is good because there is some strong wind that is supposed to start today and blow for a few days, so we’ll just wait that out up in the northern part of the atoll. We were planning to move anchorages yesterday, but our quick trip to shore turned into an all-day event, because there was a big celebration with a traditional dance competition among all the villages of the island (it turns out that there’s 13). The dancing went from 11am to about 5pm. The local people were very nice to us and treated us like royalty, giving us front row mats to sit on and giving us all sorts of food and drink. This was a special thing to see, because it wasn’t a show being put on for tourists, this is what they would have been doing whether we were there or not, and we had the good fortune to get to be a part of it. The very best part of the day had to be when Kiani (4-year-old from EOS II) was included in one of the dances. They decked her out in the full costume, taught her a few moves, and then let her perform with a group of kids only slightly bigger than her. It was a riot! The place erupted in cheers and laughter, and Kiani had the time of her life. Even Alex was close to admitting that it was worth coming to shore to see… he was laughing so hard he was almost crying.
According to the weather forecast we are not supposed to see the sun for the next week so it will be lots of water catching and generator running.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – December 28, 2015 (Abemama North Anchorage)
Daily Notes
- Impromptu chit-chat on Exodus w/ Mariposa & EOS II
- Happy hour on Mariposa
Logbook – December 29, 2015 (Abemama North Anchorage)
Daily Notes
- Family Scrabble. Tim won (of course!)
Logbook – December 30, 2015 (Abemama North Anchorage)
Daily Notes
- Nothing in the log book
Gresham Family Exodus 