Agua Verde is a very nice anchorage. There are north and south-facing coves in the bay, so it’s good for most weather conditions. There is also a small town there, larger than San Evaristo, with small tiendas (stores) for basic provisions. And last but not least there is spearfishing at Roca Solitaria. We stayed in the Southernmost anchorage with Roca Solitaria to the North and Pyramid rock (great snorkeling) separating our cove with the main cove where the town is.
Logbook – May 6, 2013 (Agua Verde)
Daily Notes
0904 – changed propane (in Alex’s writing)
Boys hiking
D-kayak to shore, tiendas
T-spearfishing
Dinner with other kid boats at “restaurant”
A soccer ball fell off one of the other boats, so Tim told the boys to jump in the kayak to get the ball. This is what Brenden came back with (a dead puffer fish). He was pretty pleased.Roca Solitaria in the distanceThis is the beach in the main, middle anchorage of Agua Verde. The town sits just behind the beach, hard to see in the photo.Looking through the reef around pyramid rock back at our anchorage
Logbook – May 7, 2013 (Agua Verde)
Daily Notes
D-kayak & tienda & fresh tortillas with Kim (sv Star Passage)
T, boys-huka @ roca solitaria with Peter, Kim, Harlen (sv Star Passage), Colton (sv Sweet Dreams), & Richard (sv Northern Passage)
Dinner – 3 fish Tim caught spearfishing
Bonfire on the beach
Goats, what else?
Sunset behind SV Star PassageMore sunset photosMore sunset photosTasty fishFootball on the beach
Logbook – May 8, 2013 (Agua Verde)
Daily Notes
After school kid gathering on Exodus
Tim-more spearfishing
Potluck on Exodus, new kid boat Endeavor
(Edit: Endeavor is who Tim bought his first spear gun from, and the rest is history.)
I guess Alex is wiped out after footballJumping off Exodus
Logbook – May 9, 2013 (Agua Verde)
Daily Notes
Football on beach, D hike w/ Sophia, B stung by fuzzy ant
T-excellent day spearfishing – 3 different fish for dinner
Bonfire on beach
A very lucrative day spear fishing for Tim. The golden grouper is pretty rare, and it tasted fantastic.More football on the beach. Quarterback B goes deep.The boys and I (Deanne) were going for a hike, but they lost interest in hanging out with me when football became a competing option. Luckily, Sophia stuck with me.The other side of the North Agua Verde anchorage (looking NW)This photo was taken on the beach at the Northern cove facing the side opposite where the anchorage is, so this photo is looking North.Tasty fish
Logbook – May 10, 2013 (Agua Verde)
Daily Notes
Ran watermaker for 6 hours
Alex completed test lesson 40, Brenden completed test lesson 60
Bahia Amortajada was a day stop between Isla San Francisco and San Evaristo. It is on the southern end of Isla San Jose, a much larger island to the north of Isla San Francisco. There is a mangrove lagoon that we drove the dinghy through.
San Evaristo has a small town including a restaurant and tienda. There are two anchorages in the bay: 1) A larger East facing anchorage where the town is, and 2) A smaller South facing bay to the NE. We stayed in the second one.
About midway between San Evaristo and Agua Verde, Puerto Los Gatos anchorage has beautiful red rocks and a nice beach for skim boarding. It does not provide great protection, though, so it’s best in calm weather. You can anchor on either side. We chose to anchor on the south side exposed more to the North, the rest of the fleet chose the north side exposed more to the South. I’m pretty sure it didn’t matter, it was rolly everywhere.
Logbook – May 1, 2013 (Isla San Francisco to Bahia Amortajada to San Evaristo)
Passage Log Highlights
1130 Depart Isla SF
1230 Arrive at Bahia Amortajada (Isla San Jose)
1520 Depart Bahia Amortajada
1736 Arrive San Evaristo
Daily Notes
Day Trip to Bahia Amortajada on Isla San Jose for a dinghy trip into the mangrove lagoon w/ sv’s Star Passage & Sweet Dreams
“Passage” to San Evaristo
Happy hour on Exodus
Dinner at “Restaurant” with all kid boats
Another boys game of risk at sv Sweet Dreams
We departed Isla SF at 11:30 and arrived at San Evaristo at 17:36 with a 2 hour and 50-minute excursion at Bahia AmortajadaThe geography of the mangrove lagoon at Bahia AmortajadaIsla Coyote (Isla Pardito) which is a very small, inhabited island in between San Francisco and San JoseTaken from the dinghy at the mouth of the mangrove lagoonLooking behind at the anchored boats and the other two crews (Star Passage and Sweet Dreams) following us in their dinghiesThe only bird we sawSweet DreamsNavigating around the shallow spots (Star Passage and Sweet Dreams)The mangrove lagoonFinding our wayThe narrow mangrove channels opened up into a large lagoon separated from the sea of cortez by this wall of rocksDinghies at restBrenden gets distracted from building his rock towerThe way back to the mangrovesThe rock wallRock piling kept everyone busyGina and BrendenColton and AlexTim won for tallest towerEnjoying exploring the Mangrove LagoonEnjoying exploring the Mangrove LagoonStar PassageWe got smoked by SV Star Passage
We departed Isla SF at 11:30 and arrived at San Evaristo at 17:36 with a 2 hour and 50-minute excursion at Bahia Amortajada
The geography of San Evaristo. We anchored in the north lobe of the bay, although the town was in the south lobe
Logbook – May 2, 2013 (San Evaristo)
Daily Notes
Boys risk game on sv Sweet dreams then swimming on Exodus & football at the beach
D -hike to top of ridge, kayak around bay, trip to tienda (closed)
T – Spear x 2 w/ Peter (sv Star Passage). 4 fish.
Dinner w/ sv Star Passage on Exodus
Knife dropped overboard – A&B dove for it (32 ft depth)
(Edit: Diving for the knife was an emotional ordeal. One of the boys dropped it overboard while rinsing the dishes and Tim made them dive well into the evening and as the sun was setting. They eventually retrieved it after many tears.)
All the boats at anchor (and you can see the small village off in the distance)I kayaked to shore……and hiked to the top of the ridge.Lots of room in the anchorageThe beautiful desert mountain sceneryOn the other (North) side of the ridgeA view from slightly higher upA view of part of the villageIt’s a reading party
Logbook – May 3, 2013 (San Evaristo to Puerto Los Gatos)
Passage Log Highlights
1200 Depart San Evaristo
1320 Sailing under Genniker & Main
1956 Arrive Puerto Los Gatos
Daily Notes
Thousands of Dolphins
Tienda @ San Evaristo
(Edit: This was crazy!!! On passage between San Evaristo to Puerto Los Gatos, there was a wall of water disturbance off in the distance which was seriously concerning. As it approached we realized it was dolphins. Thousands of tiny dolphins! No photos or videos as it happened too fast. Had we stopped to get a camera we would have missed it.
We departed San Evaristo at 12:00 and arrived at Puerto Los Gatos at 18:56.Sailing north to Puerto Los Gatos. I think this is Fluenta and Northern PassageThe geography of Puerto Los Gatos
May 4, 2013 – Puerto Los Gatos
Daily Notes
Red rocks, skimboarding, fishing
Girls spa day on Sweet Dreams
Lobster fest on Exodus
(Edit: Peter from Star Passage contracted with the local fishermen to provide a lobster feast that night. Soon enough Tim and the boys would be catching their own lobsters and we would be super spoiled.)
We settled into an anchor spot in the south lobe (there was a small reef between us and the beach)This anchorage had stunning red rocksThe rest of the kid boat flotilla fleet across the bay in the North lobeBeach timeExodus all alone in the North lobeA panorama of the whole bayStunning terrainStunning terrainStunning terrainGirls spa day on SV Sweet DreamsBeautiful Sophia!Love it girls!
Email to family and friends dated May 5, 2013
Subject: Hi from The Sea
We are currently at a small bay called Puerto Los Gatos, and we are still with the other kid boats. Lots of fun including a girls spa day on one of the other boats (we are the only family without a daughter) and a Lobster feast on Exodus yesterday. We are leaving today for Agua Verde but getting a slow start. There is a small town there, so maybe wifi???
Love you all,
-D.
Logbook – May 5, 2013 (Puerto Los Gatos to Agua Verde)
Passage Log Highlights
1200 depart Puerto Lost Gatos
1632 Arrive Agua Verde
1804 P engine on briefly, rebridled anchor
Daily Notes
D-run on the beach
Boys skimboard
Passage to Agua Verde
Boys hike up to top of ridge w/ Harlen and Richard
Parrot fish for dinner!
Chillin on the red rocks after a runMom sports the Exodus poseWhy is digging a hole so entertaining?The boys are loving their skim boards! There’s no waves in the sea to boogie board, so this has been a pretty good alternative.A nice flat beach for skim boardingBoys skim boarding in the distanceShallow water explains the nice skim boardingThe boys smoked me on the way back to the boatTrying to catch dinner en routeRoca SolitariaWe departed Lost Gatos at 12:00 and arrived at Agua Verde at 16:32. We sailed a little bit with the main and gennaker but then the wind died and we motored.The geography of Agua Verde. We anchored in the south lobe.The boys went on an evening hike after arriving at Agua Verde
This is an absolutely beautiful island. We could have spent much more time here, but we were following the kid boat flotilla after all. The first night we spent in the beautiful crescent-shaped SW facing anchorage, but we got hit by a corumuel and high tailed it out of there in the morning. We went around to the NE facing anchorage, and there we got a bit of wrap-around swell, but not too bad. Our last night there was a calm one and we anchored off the very north end of the island.
Logbook – April 28, 2013 (Isla Partida to Isla San Francisco)
Passage Log Highlights
1030 Depart Ensenada Grande
1330 Arrive El Bajo. Dropped Tim at SV Sweet Dreams
1545 Depart El Bajo
1900 Arrive Isla San Francisco
Daily Notes
Tim dove at El Bajo w/ Sweet Dreams and Fluenta
South anchorage of Isla SF, no protection from wind or swells
Boys walked to other side of the island w/ other kids. Collected rocks.
(Edit: Tim borrowed Dive gear from Jim on Sweet Dreams and the boys and I drifted around on Exodus while they dove. The other boats anchored and they so they all spent a lot of their dive time checking anchors.)
We departed Isla Partida at 10:30 in the morning and arrived at Isla San Francisco at 19:00 with a 2 hour and 15 minute stop to dive El Bajo.On Passage leaving Isla Partida (s/v Star Passage)The dive site (El Bajo). We stopped here en route from Isla Partida to Isla San Francisco.Sunset our first night at anchor at Isla San Francisco
Logbook – April 29, 2013 (Isla San Francisco)
Passage Log Highlights
0850 Depart Isla SF south anchorage
0940 Arrive Isla SFN.
Daily Notes
Conditions (swell) worsened, moved to other side of the island
D hiked to the top of ridge with Bruce & Jen (SV N. Passage), Jim & Gina (SV Sweet Dreams), Max (Fluenta)
Tim fished around the corner
Boys collected rocks on the beach, then Alex skurfed with Richart & Colton. B paddle boarded w/ Harlen.
(Edit: That morning was awful. We woke up hobby horsing, and I ended up waking Tim and telling him I thought we should move, “I didn’t care what the other boats were doing!” By the time we were raising anchor Star Passage was already heading out and all the other boats followed. We followed the herd that night. And while I was kicking myself that morning, in retrospect, I think I would make the same decision again. Weather is uncertain and we were never in any danger, and there’s something to be said for being part of a herd.)
After a bumpy night in the South Anchorage we moved around to find more protection in the NE Anchorage
Alex doing some boat choresBrenden changing the oilReal boat problemsComing to shore for a hikeWhen leaving a kayak on the shore it’s important to consider the tide range. There was great rock collecting on the beach at the NE facing anchorage. Alex found an awesome agate.Exodus and FluentaA panorama of the anchorage at Isla San FranciscoGrown up time! Goin for a hike.Looking behind at the anchorageExodus at anchor at Isla San FranciscoAll of the boats in the anchorageBruce (Northern Passage), Max (Fluenta), D, Jim (sweet dreams) and Jen (Northern Passage)Heading to the ridgeDeanne and GinaThe crescent-shaped SW facing anchorage is on the left, and the NE facing anchorage with all the rocks is on the right.A view of the kids playing on the crescent-shaped beachIf you look closely you can see Alex “skurfing” for the first timeBrenden’s first time on a paddle boardAlex with Richard and Colton in the dinghy taking turns skurfing, Harlen in the kayak, Brenden on the paddle board.He’s a naturalHe’s a naturalBeach potluck and later a bonfireMax, Liz, and DeanneHarlen, Brenden, Carmen, Victoria, Sophia, NikkiThe kids really enjoyed the bonfire. Marshmallows and everything!Two boys in a burrito
Logbook – April 30, 2013 (Isla San Francisco)
Passage Log Highlights
1340 Arrive ISF Far N. Anchorage
Daily Notes
Early AM Moorings charter boat dragged anchor. Attempts to hail on VHF unsuccessful. Fluenta’s bullhorn roused the occupants
Moved to very north of Isla SF to collect seashells. Ended up staying the night.
Tim snorkeling and fishing. Boys went over to sv Sweet dreams to play risk
Birthday celebration for Max (sv Fluenta)
(Edit: I was really nervous to stay the night totally unprotected on the north side of the island. But we were part of a herd now. And everything was fine.
Brenden and Mom navigate to the North side of the islandWe spent our last night at Isla San Francisco up at the North AnchorageThis is the anchorage at the very north end of the island. There’s not really a bay, but you are protected from SE winds (wouldn’t be good in a SW corumuel)All aboard the Exodus dinghyCollecting seashellsVictoria from FluentaEnter a captionTim found some high ground to take some amazing photosAttack seagullLooking EastExodus at anchor on the North side of Isla San FranciscoExodus pose?Lone snorkelerLooking WestJumping off the bows of Exodus became a regular pastimeThe battle for world dominationHarlen, Brenden, Richard, Alex, ColtonWe had a dessert party on Sweet Dreams for Max’s birthdayAboard s/v Sweet Dreams
After we got our new anchor, we headed back to Isla Partida and caught up with four other kid boats: Star Passage, Fluenta, Northern Passage, and Sweet Dreams.
Logbook – April 26, 2013 – Ensenada Grande (Isla Partida)
Daily Notes
Finished school before lunch!
Snorkle trip to see the blue-footed boobies at Las Cuevitas with s/v Star Passage. Saw exactly 1 booby. Snorkeling was fun.
Capture the flag on the beach w/ sv’s Star Passage, Fluenta, Sweet Dreams, Northern Passage
Potluck on the beach
More homemade Oreos
(Edit: Spoiler alert – there will be more blue-footed boobies in our future.)
Full moon at Ensenada GrandeMore homemade Oreos. This time closer to normal size. With Harlen and Sofia (Star Passage)Oreos on the net
Logbook – April 27, 2013 – Ensenada Grande (Isla Partida)
Daily Notes
Day trip to Los Islotes (sea lions) on Exodus w/ sv’s Star Passage, Fluenta, Sweet Dreams, & kids from N. Passage.
Alex & Harlen (sv Star Passage) joy ride in the dinghy
Tim & Kim (sv Star Passage) surfing, Deane & Kim snorkeled
Tim & Peter (sv Star Passage) fishing
(Edit: Wow, that’s a lot to fit into one day!)
School of raysKid boat group excursion back to Los Islotes (to swim with sea lions)Everyone swam with the sea lions (but I opted to stay aboard Exodus)These two went at it for a whileThe boys comfortable on the top deck of Exodus: Harlen, Alex, Colton, Jonathon, Richard.Brenden found his own place up at the bow.Richard (Northern Passage), Alex, Colton (Sweet Dreams).Everyone is comfortable on the netMonohullers in aweEnsenada Grande
Email to family and friends dated April 27, 2013
Subject: Hi from Ensenada Grande
We are having a wonderful time! We have hooked up with four other “kid boats” each with 2 kids aged range 7 to 14. The boys are at the beach right now with all the kids playing capture the flag. We took everyone on Exodus today on a day trip up to swim with the Sea Lions again. Good times! Love you all, -D.
Northern PassageThese boys aren’t old enough to drive at home, but out here they are dinghy captainsBeach Bocce BallBeach PotluckKid Boats at anchor at Ensenada Grande
Back in La Paz yet again and this time the highlights were a beached whale, our new anchor, and MEETING OTHER KID BOATS FINALLY.
Logbook – April 18, 2013 (Isla Partida to La Paz)
Daily Notes
Back to La Paz for the 4th time. Winds up to 30 knots, 8-10 ft swells. Anchored in our “usual” spot next to Seamentress. Flew wing & wing w/ 2 headsails for a bit. Seamentress = Paul and Philipina (Dr.)
Grocery shopping for fresh stuff
Alex dropped the frenchpress lid, had to jump in
(Edit: Oh the drama of dropping items and having to jump in after them.)
The dinghy chauffeur driving mom back with a load of groceriesA small gem of a park discovered while walking to the grocery storeA sculpture garden
Logbook – April 19, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Laundry day & internet cafe
Wakeboarding behind the dinghy
Ran engines to make hot water ~40 min. Didn’t record engine hours.
(Edit: We had to manually keep track of engine hours so we would know when oil changes, etc. were due. )
Logbook – April 20, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
“Head Blow out” – Big mess repairing B’s head. Unexpected immediate trip to the bad to dump heads. Dinner at the shack w/ Northern Passage, Affluenta (sic), Sweet Dreams, and Star Passage (other kid boats) w/ ice cream after.
Still no anchor.
Logbook – April 21, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Beached Whale! In the channel near buoy #8.
Trip to Walmart 😦
Happy Hour with Jim, Gina, and Nikki from Sweet Dreams
Beached whale in the La Paz channel. They tied a rope to its fluke and eventually pulled it free with a panga. It was a very sad yet amazing thing to witness. We had a front row seat in our dinghy.Beached whale in La Paz channelBeached whale in La Paz channelBeached whale in La Paz channelBeached whale in La Paz channelBeached whale in La Paz channelSunset in the La Paz channel anchorage
Logbook – April 22, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
“Garth on Irish Diplomacy does GREAT weather reporting”
Loretofest first weekend in May – Puerto Escondido
Wakeboarding behind the dinghy/mom runs on the Malecon
Visit up at Cost Baja with s/v Star Passage – Peter, Kim, Harlen, Sophia
Infiniti pool at Costa Baja marina. We were invited there for the afternoon by Peter and Kim (Star Passage)Infiniti pool at Costa Baja marina.
Logbook – April 23, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Playdate with Harlen from s/v Star Passage. Skimboarding & wakeboarding. Happy hour & dinner with Kim & Sophia.
Still no anchor.
The less glamorous side of cruising — Tim doing some repair to the propane system……and Brenden helping. This time Brenden wasn’t the one who had to climb inside the wall.Jumping off the bow of Exodus. One of the kids’ frequent activities. Boys are joined by Harlen from SV Star Passage.
Logbook – April 24, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Grocery Shopping. Boys take the dinghy to the beach by themselves
Homemade banana bread and Oreos
Dinner at Stella
Giant homemade oreosLa Paz wall artMy way home from the grocery storeThe Minstrels
Logbook – April 25, 2013 (La Paz to Ensenada Grande)
Passage Log Highlights
1440 Depart La Paz
1540 Arrive Costa Baja Fuel Dock. No SB reverse.
1740 Depart Costa Baja. New anchor installed.
2230 Arrived Ensenada Grande
Daily Notes
Anchor arrived!
Last-minute provisioning & get the heck out of La Paz
Very still at anchor (no wind @10:45 pm!)
This anchor just has to goSuch a sad, small, little anchorThe new Rocna!So excited over the new anchor. No more dragging!
Isla Partida is an island near La Paz, smaller than, and north of, Espiritu Santo. Our favorite anchorage was a small cove near the top called Ensenada el Embudo. We also really enjoyed swimming with the sea lions at an islet just north called Los Islotes.
The geography of Isla Partida. We started at Ensenada Grande and then moved up to Ensenada El Embudo with a couple day drips up to Los Islotes.
Logbook – April 15, 2013 (La Paz to Isla Partida)
Passage Log Highlights
1100 Called Lopez Marine – anchor probably end of the week
1345 Depart La Paz
1930 Arrive Ensenada Grande (Isla Partida)
Daily Notes
Ran watermaker for 4 hours
Another kid boat in the anchorage
(Edit: We had ordered a new anchor, and when they told us “probably” it would arrive by the end of the week we figured we should go spend some more time at the islands rather than sitting around La Paz waiting.)
(Edit: That other kid boat in the anchorage was the first time we met Fluenta. Spoiler alert: they were with us off and on our entire journey, in fact, when we flew home from Fiji to Los Angeles they were on the flight with us.)
Brenden at the helm while dropping the anchorEnsenada GrandeEnsenada GrandeEnsenada Grande – In our logbook on this day was a simple entry: “Another kid boat in the bay.” (That’s FLUENTA! Spoiler alert – they will make many, many appearances in our journey)
Logbook – April 16, 2013 (Isla Partida)
Daily Notes
Rolly night in the anchorage (Ensenada Grande)
Speedometer still not working
Dinghy ride from Ensenada el Embudo to Los Islotes to swim w/ the sea lions
Explored small beach & rocks at Ensenada el Embudo
Boys sunset kayak fishing
NO SCHOOL TODAY
Email sent to family and friends dated April 16, 2013
Subject: No wifi for a few days
Our new anchor is not supposed to arrive in La Paz until late in the week, so we have headed back up to the islands. We are in an anchorage on Isla Partida called Ensenada Grande. There is a reef just north of here where there is a Sea Lion rookery and they are very accustomed to humans and you can dive with them. We were hoping to do that this morning, but it’s still too windy. We had a rocky night at anchor due to strong SW winds, but thankfully no anchor dragging.
Ensenada GrandeSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesSwimming with Sea Lions at Los IslotesEnsenada el Embudo – We met some sea kayakers here. The tour company drops them off from La Paz and then they kayak around the islands. There is also a base down at Ensenada del Candelero (on Espiritu Santo)The geography of Ensenada El Embudo. It’s a small cove and we anchored right in the middleAlex at Ensenada el EmbudoKayakers camping at el EmbudoAlex at Ensenada el EmbudoEnsenada el EmbudoEnsenada el EmbudoWhere’s Alex?Playing with hermit crabs at Ensenada el EmbudoEnsenada el EmbudoSunset Kayak fishing excursionSunset Kayak fishing excursionSunset Kayak fishing excursionNo fishEnjoying some nice wine at el Embudo
Logbook – April 17, 2016 (Isla Partida)
Daily Notes
Responded to an emergency call on VHF from kayakers on the beach. One had a cut on his shin needing medical attention. We tried many times to reach the tour company on VHF. Ended up giving Michael and Martha a ride down to Ensenada del Candelero.
Second swim with the Sea Lions at Los Islotes
Anchorage Ensenada Grande – safe exit 245 deg
Another trip to Los Islotes. This time we just took Exodus and I drifed around while the boys swam with the sea lions (not really my thing)Los IslotesLos Islotes
Back in La Paz and this time the highlights were Bay Fest and the Bocce Ball Tournament.
Logbook – April 7, 2013 (Caleta Partida to La Paz)
Passage Log Highlights
1030 1130 depart for La Paz
1830 Arrive La Paz
Daily Notes
Daylight savings time
Making sugar cookies on board ExodusBack at the trampoline at Stella restaurant. Little kids just love Alex. (Brenden kept his distance)
Logbook – April 11, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
No coffee F or Sat
Fri video exchange
Bayfest Schedule:
Volleyball – 10am F La Costa, 10am/12:30 Sat La Costa
Winetasting – 5pm Thurs 🙂
Backwark kayak race – 12;30 sun
Costume party – Sat night
Hand paddle dinghy – Sat
Logbook – April 12, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Too close to s/v Seamentress. Raised anchor and moved closer to the marina
Logbook – April 13, 2013 (La Paz)
Passage Log Highlights
0915 Raised anchor – headed out to the bay to make water and dump heads
Daily Notes
La Paz Bayfest continues. Tim & Alex took 2nd in the Bocce Ball tourney. Dinner at the shack. Good burgers and chili.
(Edit: The Bocce Ball Tournament was a lot of fun. They lost to Scott (I don’t recall his boat name) and Derek (Interabang.) Derek and Trish on Interabang had experience staying in the Sea of Cortez for the summer, so we picked their brains, and since they were staying again this year we looked forward to hanging out.)
Outside La Costa restaurantBocce ball tournament. Team Exodus (Tim and Alex) took 2nd place out of 24 teams. (This was the very competitive and headed semi-final match)Chillin in the hammockRandom pelican pictureLove it! At The Shack resturant.
Logbook – April 14, 2013 (La Paz)
Daily Notes
Last day of Bayfest, pressure cooker seminar, awards ceremony. Backward kayak race. Met another kid boat. Tim took the kids (from s/v The Vortex) to the beach.
Backward kayak race. Alex and Brenden got smoked!Bay fest award ceremony. They called Alex and Tim the “dark horse” team.
We spent a total of 9 days at the island with a brief trip back to La Paz in the middle to purchase permits. The cruising guide said Rangers could sell them at the island, but the Rangers told us we had to go back to La Paz. Go figure. Buying the permit was a bit of an adventure, and I’m grateful to my very helpful taxi driver that day. We enjoyed our time at the island, even though we had a couple bumpy nights at anchor due to strong winds out the South. Our favorite anchorage was Caleta Partida, which is actually between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida. Our last day there we drove the dinghy between the islands (well, in a couple spots we got out and walked it due to how shallow it was.) The cliffs, sea caves, and visibility into the water were all breathtaking. We all snorkeled and loved it.
The anchorages we visited at Isla Espiritu Santo
Logbook – March 29, 2013 (La Paz to Isla Espiritu Santo)
Passage Log Highlights
1030 Depart, P engine on
1400 Arrived Bahia San Gabriel
We departed La Paz at 9:00 and arrived at Bahia San Gabriel on Isla Espiritu Santo at 14:00, sailing most of the way.Bahia San Gabriel is a vast bayThe boys went for a hooka at Bahia San GabrielFrom the beach at Bahia San GabrielWe kayaked to shoreTormenting the crabsBeached kayaksMangrovesSunset over kayaksA bird sanctuaryReady for a hikeWe hiked across the island from San Gabriel to Playa Bonanza (What were we thinking?)The view back toward Bahia San GabrielHike through the desertThey were good sportsThe hike was actually pretty miserable, but we perseveredWe made it to the other side of the island – a gorgeous beach called Playa Bonanza (Spoiler alert: we will be back.)Playa BonanzaI ruined hikes for the ENTIRE trip with this hikeBest sunset so far?
Logbook – April 1, 2013 (Day Trip to La Paz)
Passage Log Highlights
1030 Depart Bahia San Gabriel for La Paz
1700 Depart La Paz for Isla Espiritu Santo
2030 Arrive back at Bahia San Gabriel
(Edit: We had been approached by a Ranger asking us for our permit to be there. We asked if we could just purchase it on the spot (wink-wink) but they said no. We could stay the weekend but then we would have to go back to La Paz to get our permit. When we arrived back at the island we figured we’d just anchor where we had before. What could go wrong?)
Logbook – April 2, 2013 (Isla Espiritu Santo)
Passage Log Highlights
0800 Corumuel all night. Moving to Ensenada La Gallina.
0900 Arrived Ensenda La Gallina.
(Edit: The wind blew all night out of the southwest so we had no protection and we dragged and bounced all night. When we raised anchor in the morning there was a small engine block on the anchor. So, I guess you can’t blame this dragging incident all on the tiny little anchor.)
Email sent to family and friends dated April 2, 2013
Subject: Another Corumuel
We are back at the island after our pitstop back in La Paz. Last night we spent a stressful night back at the bay we had previously anchored because of a weather phenomenon around here called coromuel. Normal winds here are from N-NW and most anchorages provide good protection. Cormuels kick up to 20kts in the evening from the S and blow all night, and our anchor dragged again. We moved this morning to a better anchorage to regroup and have breakfast, then we are going to head further up the island probably to a bay called Ensenada del Candalero. We experienced the corumel last time our anchor dragged when we were at Puerto Ballandra. For their composition assignment last week I had the boys write essays about their first month cruising. They are now done and ready to publish, so those will be posted to fb next time we have wifi. Alex went on and on about how boring homeschool is… Amy, I could use some more tips! We will use the inReach when we leave here in just a little bit so you’ll be able to see where we finally settle for the next few days. It appears I don’t have any cell connection here, but that could change when we move. Love you all. -D.
Moving to Ensenada del Candelero
Email to family and friends dated April 3, 2013
Subject: Stayed put yesterday, moved today
We decided to stay put yesterday. After the lack of sleep and the news about papa duck, we just never felt like raising anchor. So, today, midmorning we moved just a couple miles north on the island. We used the inReach, so hopefully you can see where we are. A beautiful cove that we can anchor close enough to the beach to kayak. Our love back to everyone as we remember papa duck! -D.
P.S. for those on distro who don’t know, “papa duck” is Marsha’s dad (Tim’s grandpa) and he passed away yesterday after turning just 91 last week.
Las Calaveritas (we kayked back to this small cove from Ensenada del Candelero)Las Calaveritas — playing with the tiny hermit crabsThe geography of Ensenada del Candelero and Las CalaveritasExodus at anchor at Ensenada del CandeleroExodus at anchor at Ensenada del Candelero
Logbook – April 5, 2013 (Isla Espiritu Santo)
Passage Log Highlights
1315 Arrived at Caleta Partida after short excursion to dump heads
Caleta Partida – This anchorage is actually between the islands of Espiritu Santo and Partida and at high tide you can drive the dinghy through around to the other sideThe geography of Caleta PartidaThe other (West) side of Caleta PartidaLooking back at Exodus in Caleta PartidaA rare photo of momWe drove the dinghy between the islands and headed South down the west side of Espiritu Santo to check out some sea cavesSea cavesRiding in the dinghyAlex along for the rideBeautiful landscape on the west side of Espiritu SantoSnorkeling near Caleta PartidaSnorkeling near Caleta PartidaSnorkeling near Caleta PartidaExodus at Caleta PartidaLast sunset at Isla Espiritu Santo
It’s hard to summarize La Paz. There is a huge cruising community based there including a club called Club Cruceros, which we joined. There are large Mega Stores (including Wal Mart) to provision and you can find most things you need, but it’s pretty spread out and hard to do on foot. The anchorage is difficult, but we seem to have figured it out. We went on the hard for a few days to have new bottom paint done, so there’s a separate photo album dedicated to that.
Logbook – March 21, 2013 (Puerto Balandra to La Paz)
Passage Log Highlights
1030 Departed – only P engine on
1553 Arrived. Both engines on. Making sure we are set.
(Edit: La Paz was the first time we encountered anchoring in the presence of a strong current. It took us a while to figure out why all the boats weren’t facing the same way.)
It was a 5 1/2 hour day motor sail from Puerto Balandra down to La PazApproaching the La Paz channelWe settled into an anchor spot on the east side of the channel. This was the most difficult anchoring we had done to date due to the strong current in the channel.Looking North up towards the channelSunset reflectionSunset on our first night back in civilizationSunset over all the masts at anchorThe boys just love “boatmeal”
(Edit: VHF cruiser nets were a novelty at first but it wore off. In areas with high cruiser traffic, there is usually a channel designated for hailing so we aren’t all on the official channel 16 clogging it up. In La Paz it was channel 22.)
Relaxing on a lounge chair at the beachBrenden would much rather dig in the sand than relax in a lounge chairA view up the beachA small marinaBrenden in his own worldA restaurant on the beach called “Stella” had this just outside. Boys loved it.Heading to the grocery store. it’s easily a mile away, so I’m taking my two pack mules with me.Wyland wallThis is a, well, interesting, replica of mushroom rockAt the PlazaThe Catedral de Nuestra Senora de La PazAlex loves being at the museum. We spent an hour or so at the Museo Regional de Antropologia e Historia (Regional Museum of Anthropology and History), and you would think it was torture.Brenden keeps losing the staring contestI really liked this mural at the museum.Brothers walking along the malecon.
Logbook – March 27, 2013 (La Paz)
Passage Log Highlights
1100 Back in the water. Out in the bay dumping heads.
This dog kept us entertained. He actually got in the water and chased fish most of the timeDolphins were everywhere in the anchorage. This pod actually swam under our boat.It was nice to be back at anchor after the hauloutMagnetic knife blockMore dolphins in the channel
We left Cabo before daybreak and had a several hour passage, mostly motoring, to Bahia Los Frailes. The highlight was, well, you can tell, WHALES!
Bahia Los Frailes is 28 nmi from Cabo, heading North East. Cabo Pulmo National Park is just around a couple points to the North and the boys hooka’d there while I drifted around in the dinghy. We had our first encounter with other cruisers and enjoyed the long, white sand beach. Overall, I think our first anchorage in new territory was a huge success.
We didn’t enjoy Muertos as much as Frailes, but the wifi from the restaurant was a nice treat
Puerto Balandra is one of the bays just north of La Paz, and it’s by far the most picturesque place we’ve been to so far. Of course, there is the anchor dragging incident, but hey, you can deal with anything in paradise, right?
Logbook – March 14, 2013 (Cabo to Frailes)
Passage Log Highlights
0530 Started both engines
0536 Attempted to radio Port Captain on VHF 16
0550 Departed Cabo
0751 Slowed for fish
1400 Arrive at Bahia Frailes
(Edit: We always tried to follow the rules and trying to radio port authorities when we were supposed to and always check in an out when we were supposed to but we quickly learned that rules change and are not even always enforced.)
(Edit: Kind of funny that I documented that we slowed for fish. I wonder if at this point I was annoyed or just bored. Tim and I would later have more than one argument about him yelling at me to slow the boat down when there’s a fish on.)
It was an 8 hour motor from Cabo To Bahia Los FrailesAdios Cabo!Jumping fish. These were everywhere! We soon learned they were small rays.
Jumping FishAnother look back at Cabo as the sun comes upHere come the dolphins!And the WHALES!This was such an amazing sight! There was a whole pod of whales between us and the shore. They were surfacing and breaching, and they put on quite the show for us!So close to the shoreLots of tail flukesThey were captivatingSlapping the waterBreaching!More splashingAnd more breachingThe Geography of Bahia Los FrailesExodus at anchor at Bahia Los FrailesCaptain Tim and his straw hatA fantastic running beach. 10/14/13 Update: Still the best running beach so farThere was a campground at Bahia Los FrailesWe used the kayaks to get to and from the beachA nice profile of ExodusThe long stretch of beachThere was another cat in the bay with us. A nice couple who left for the Marquesas (Dave and Booker on s/v Tortuguita)ExploringDoing some dishesSunsetLegos are still a favorite pastimeBrenden’s always good for a smile towards the camera.
Logbook – March 15, 2013 (Bahia Los Frailes)
Daily Notes
Cocktails w/ Dave & Booker @ Tortuguita
(Edit: They were a nice couple on another catamaran and we were the only two boats in the bay. They had already cleared out of Mexico and were waiting for their weather window to jump to The Marquesas. They had already left once, but winds were nonexistent so they turned around and waited. We went over to their boat, and I brought over a nice bottle of red wine. I didn’t really know the protocol or expectations, I just figured I should bring something. The following evening they came over to Exodus and they brought some yummy bread, I seem to recall it was coconut bread.)
Fiery sunsetFamily Minecraft
Email sent to family and friends dated March 15, 2013
Subject: Hi, we are at Bahia Los Frailes
A few of you have messaged that inReach is showing us on the land! I assure you we are safely tucked away in a small anchorage on the other side of the tip of Baja anchored a safe distance from shore. I’m guessing the accuracy of the map they use is not as good as the accuracy of the GPS locations reported. Oh well. If you noticed us veer in towards land en route yesterday, it’s because whales were traveling close to shore. We got close enough to take some amazing pictures of them breaching. It was breathtaking. And made for a difficult school day, since who wants to work on Math when you are close enough to actually HEAR the whales! I can’t wait to upload photos for you all to see.
Cabo was OK, but it was busy and noisy since we happened to show up during spring break season. Lots of drunk and stupid college kids. The boys really liked it because there was a hotel pool we could easily crash and the pool water was warmer than the ocean. We didn’t stay in the Marina in Cabo, instead, we chose to anchor out in the bay. So, we did our laundry and grocery shopping by hauling stuff back and forth in the dinghy to shore. And I’m pretty sure I’m never going to have to learn to drive the dinghy… Alex loves to drive and he will always be my chauffeur. He also takes the responsibility to haul it up every night, and one evening I asked him to show me how too… he loves that!
The boys have used the hooka, in fact, they are out right now with it. We are flexible with school… on days they want to dive in the morning we do school in the afternoon/evening. It is still very strange to me to be in this total vacation environment while simultaneously taking care of day to day living things like laundry, groceries, house cleaning, and school. The boys are having a lot of trouble concentrating, they just want to play (me too!)
We are going to head up to La Paz in the next day or so. Feel free to email us on this address, I try to check it once every day or so, because this is also how we get weather info. I also got a small data plan on my phone, so every once in a while I cheat and turn it on when we don’t have wifi, that’s why I some times respond to emails from my phone. Hopefully we will be able to get wifi from the boat in La Paz. I am dying to upload photos!
Love and miss you all, -Deanne
Logbook – March 16, 2013 (Bahia Los Frailes to Bahia de Los Muertos)
Passage Log Highlights
2141 SB engine on awhile ago
2149 P engine on
2200 Depart
(Edit: The water heater is powered by the starboard engine so maybe we were heading some water for some showers?)
Logbook – March 17, 2013 (Bahia Los Frailes to Bahia de Los Muertos)
Passage Log Highlights
0420 Slowing down to arrive after sunrise
0657 Arrive
(Edit: This was a very unnerving experience the first time. It was very dark and the only way I knew there was land was from the chart plotter.)
It was a short, overnight passage from Frailes to MuertosThe Geography of Bahia de Los MuertosI was so ready for the sunrise as we approach Bahia de Los MuertosWe made it into the bayWalking from the dinghy dock to the restaurant, notice Alex is carrying a small bag of trash. Trash disposal is a big deal for cruisers.Pelicans everywhereThat’s one giant cactus.Alex’s silhouette with Exodus in the backgroundA short walk from the restaurant there were some tide poolsToo coolEnjoying the tide poolsCaptain Tim pondersEnter a captionAnother view of ExodusFixing the walkie talkie (it’s not ACTUALLY waterproof)The surf made the kayak landings a little more interestingAlex decides to try boogie boarding (unfortunately, there’s not THAT much surf)
No waves to boogie board? No problem.The fog rolled in
Email sent to family and friends dated March 18, 2013
Subject: Headed for Puerto Balandra
We lost wifi abruptly last night, but it was fun sharing photos and face timing. We are leaving in about an hour to head up around the corner to Puerto Balandra. It should take us half a day to get there. Love you all. -D.
Logbook – March 18, 2013 (Bahia de Los Muertos to Puerto Balandra)
Passage Log Highlights
0615 Engines on (Port only)
0620 Depart
1445 Arrive, Heading 310 deg for safe exit
Daily Notes
~2100 Anchor dragging & reset 24deg 19.2 N, 110deg 20.0 W
(Edit: And so it started. The drama with our little anchor. We were tucked well into the bay in a shallow spot at Puerto Balandra. I was already in bed, and I awoke to the sound of the engines starting and the boys calling to me that we were dragging. I shudder to think what could have happened if everyone was in bed when this happened.)
We departed Bahia de Los Muertos in the morning fogGetting underwayTending to the helmUsing the port engineThe desert geography as we head up the Baja coastThis is how most of the crew spends several hours each day… in class. Ask Brenden how easy it is to concentrate with all the fish out there calling for him to come playEntering Puerto BalandraBeautifulHongo (Mushroom) de BalandraWe departed Muertos at 0620 and sailed for a couple hours, but then ended up motoring most of the way and arrived at Puerto Balandra at 1445.The geography of Puerto Balandra, an anchorage just north of La Paz
Email to family and friends dated March 18, 2013
Subject: Made it to Puerto Balandra
Wow! This place is amazing. Jen, it looks like the places you post on Facebook. We arrived at Puerto Balandra around an hour ago and plan to stay here for a few days. Not only do we not have data or wifi, but we don’t even have cell service. So, for the next few days, this email is the only way to reach us. I will check it at least once a day. Love you all. -D.
It didn’t take long for the boys to be in the water exploringA view of Exodus from the beachThe very first “Exodus Pose” photoI’m not sure exactly what we were contemplatingExodus at anchor across the turquoise waterWith a walkie-talkie on my hipShallow waterEven Deanne got in the warm, shallow waterAnd the sun sets on the most beautiful anchorage so far
Email to family and friends dated March 19, 2013
Subject: Anchor dragging
Well, our beautiful anchorage isn’t quite so nice today. The wind kicked up last night, and our anchor dragged twice. We were on the fence whether we needed a bigger anchor, well I guess that decides it. It’s still blowing 20kts right now, so we won’t be diving this morning as planned. The water is warm enough I was even going to try the hooka. Tim and Alex snorkeled yesterday and Tim said it’s as nice here as Caymen, Colin. Oh well, I guess it’s a normal school day after all. I was wrong about not having cell service yesterday. My phone was having issues, but we have 5 bars. Still no wifi, though. -D.
Someone needs a haircutBrenden takes care of itNot too badDishes dutyStudying the periodic table is much better from the top of the deckLooking out from the bayAnother view of the world famous mushroom rockBrenden enjoys the shallow waterA decent running beach, but not nearly as nice as FrailesBrenden still loves his BioniclesSunset at Balandra
Gresham Family Exodus 