Email to family and friends dated September 10, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Fun in Neiafu
We’ve had a great few days here in Neiafu. It’s included a kid boat dinner on Dafne, a non-kid boat dinner on Novae, and best of all, Nana and Papa arrived yesterday afternoon! It’s like Christmas again with new clothes for the boys, coffee for me, and a new macerator pump for Tim! We’ll head out to one of the anchorages this morning, but we’re not sure which one yet. The weather is supposed to be decent, so we’ve got some options. Love and miss you all, -D.
Tim dove on a wreck near Neiafu with Novae and othersPapa and Nana are here! Hangin at The Aquarium.Bats in the trees near Neiafu
Anchorage #30 is on the very eastern side of the Vava’u group. It was pretty amazing…
Logbook – September 1, 2014 (Nuku Island to Anchorage #30)
Passage Log Highlights
1050 Engines on
1053 Depart
VHF relay re: vessel needing assistance. Relay between Analulu (land based) & M/V The Godfather Vessel Fidel w/ steering. Position as of 1052 am: 19 deg 09.9 S, 173 deg 37.8W drifting WNW @ 2mi/45min. 12 m ketch. Single hander. No sails up. Black hull, white deck. Godfather heading to Fidel – ETA ~ 3 hrs.
1220 – 19 deg 09.9 S 173 deg 39.3 W (updated position from Analulu. No VHF contact with Godfather)
1300 Engines off Anchorage #30
Daily Notes
Happy hour on Exodus w/ LC, Sudoeste, Dafne, Moana Roa
Before – boys play on beach, D/T shallow snorkel
Tim dropped me off for a morning runA view of Nuku IslandLady Carolina behind us on the way to KenutuThe passage to Kenutu (Anchorage #30) required navigating through some coralTucked in at Kenutu (Anchorage #30)The anchorage at KenutuPhoto by BPhoto by BPhoto by BPhoto by AlexA rickety tree house on a cliff
Joel’s 10th bday party. Roasted hot dogs & capture the flag
Of course, Tim climbed the rickety tree house!Would you believe I joined him?The view from the tree houseWe were chased out by monkeysExodus and DafneAlien invasionNo, just a droneBrenden and Kyle are really going to miss each otherJoel’s 10th birthday partyPicking teams for capture the flag
Email to family and friends dated September 2, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Kenutu
We are anchored in the lee of a small island called Kenutu on the eastern fringe of the Vava’u island group. It is spectacular here. It is a string of small islands, and the surf rushes through the gaps and sends a spray up producing quite a show. The island isn’t very big, but there is a short hike up to the top where there is a view of the rugged Western side, and Tim and I even saw a sea turtle chillin in the surf below. We are with a horde of kid boats right now (five boats, 11 kids), and yesterday was Joel’s 10th birthday, so there was a party on the beach with hot dog roasting and capture the flag. Good times. The night before we had all the parents over on Exodus and all 11 kids went over to Dafne (another catamaran) and the kids weren’t allowed to play video games or watch a movie. Not a surprise that Alex turned into a small kid jumping bag. They had a good time, and we will be sad to see most of this group, including Lady Carolina, leave for Fiji within the next week. Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – September 3, 2014 (Anchorage #30)
Daily Notes
D – run laps on the beach then hike along the ridge
T/S/Kyle – spearfish on outside – Tim came back w/ a parrot fish and rock cod
Email to family and friends dated September 4, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Fish!
Last night we enjoyed parrot fish and rock cod sauteed in garlic and red pepper flakes. Tim had some success spear fishing on the other side of the island, in the washing machine of the Pacific Ocean. It was a nice treat. We hadn’t had fish like that since Mexico. We are still at Kenutu, all alone now after all the other kid boats have left. We had a pleasant quiet evening yesterday, but today I think we will move to be closer to town. Sunday, we will head into town to have a couple days to shop and clean and get ready for Dad and Karen’s visit. The boys and I started Spanish lessons yesterday. When we left on this trip I thought we would pick up languages, but it hasn’t quite panned out, so I’ve decided to add it to their curriculum. I let them choose between French and Spanish, but they had to do the same one. I’m glad they chose Spanish, since I can be a better teacher with spelling and pronunciation than I could be with French. Brenden seemed to enjoy it. He tries hard with his pronunciation, and he happily engaged in Spanish conversation with me the rest of the day…”Hola, como esta?” Alex is going through the motions and just seems annoyed by it all. Teenagers. -D.
Logbook – September 5, 2014 (Anchorage #30)
Daily Notes
T/B spearfish – rock cod
Family hike on Unuma to massive cave w/ pool
Tim and Brenden spearfishing
Tim loads the speargun
Brenden takes a shot at a Parrot Fish
Tim plays peek-a-booA cave with a freshwater pool
Email to family and friends dated September 5, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Seclusion
There’s something to be said for having an anchorage all to yourselves. And this one is pretty special, I’m surprised no one else has shown up in the last 24 hours. Night before last we had another boat that played loud country music, but last night it was just us and the sound of the surf. Yesderday morning, Tim and Brenden went spear fishing yesterday and came back with another Rock Cod. Then in the afternoon, we all dinghied up to the next island, called ‘Umuma, and hiked around and climbed down into a huge cave with a fresh water pool inside. At least the guidebook said it was freshwater, none of us tested it to be sure. -D.
Logbook – September 6, 2015 (Anchorage #30 to Nuku Island)
Passage Log Highlights
0935 Engines on
0945 Depart
1122 Arrive Nuku Island
Daily Notes
D/T snorkel at a’a. A/B – beach games w/ kids
Potluck w/ LC on Exodus
Bonfire w/ LC, Dafne, Moxie (Mike, Denise, 2 girls), twin boys from Elena
Depart Kenutu (Anchorage #30) September 6 at 0945 – Arrive Nuku Island at 1122
Giant scallop
Nemo
September 7, 2014 (Nuku Island to Neiafu)
Passage Log Highlights
1718 Engines on
1725 Depart
1733 Port engine off
1825 Port engine on
1851 Engines off Neiafu
Daily Notes
T/Steve – spearfish, D-solo snorkel
A/B beach day all day w/ LC & Dafne
Adios to Lady Carolina – they are headed to Fiji, we will meet up in NZ
Email to family and friends dated September 7, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Back in Neiafu
We are once again back in town to do some shopping, laundry, etc. We said good-bye to Lady Carolina yesterday, since they are leaving for Fiji this morning, possibly they’ve already departed. We’ve been cruising with them since last June, so it’s sort of like the end of an era or something. The kids are pretty bummed, so luckily Papa and Nana are coming to lift their spirits! After we left Kenutu we spent the night at Nuku where there were several other kid boats as well, and we had a beach bonfire and yesterday the kids were on the beach from about 11am to 4pm. Luckily one of the other moms brought sandwiches for all the kids, since my boys had only a couple small bags of trail mix. I figure, at 12 and 13, when they’re hungry, they’ll come home for lunch, right? Anyway, instead of delivering my kids lunch I went for a solo snorkel along the island of Nuku. -D.
Depart Anchorage #16 August 30 at 1516 – Arrive Nuku Island at 1655Anchored at Nuku IslandSteve and Brenden circumnavigated the island of Nuku on foot.
Email to family and friends dated August 30, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Coral Gardens
Yesterday, we once again topped our snorkeling experiences with at what is known as the coral gardens along a reef that extends between two islands. We were anchored in a sheltered cove on the inside of the reef, so we had to swim across it with waves coming over to get out to the good stuff, but once we did, wow was it worth it. The color of the coral was unlike anything I’ve seen before, and it was cloudy so the sun wasn’t even out that bright. I wore a weight belt with almost the right amount of weight in it, so I was able to dive down deeper than I ever have before. My reward was being able to hear the whales singing, since you couldn’t hear them near the surface. We moved anchorages after our snorkle, so we are now tucked in behind a small island called Nuku. It’s been very blowy here the past few days and is expected to stay that way for a few more. We saw over 25 kts when we were motoring over here yesterday afternoon. When the wind dies down later in the week we hope to make our way out to the eastern anchorages where you have to navigate through a fair amount of coral to get there. Then I think we will have the place fully scouted and ready for Dad and Karen to come! Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – August 31, 2014 (Nuku Island)
Daily Notes
Nothing recorded
Email to family and friends dated August 31, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Hull Cleaning for Candy
When I sent yesterday’s email I didn’t realize it had been a week since my last one (thanks for the kick in the butt, Jen!) Yesterday the 4 boys negotiated with True Blue V to clean their waterline (not the whole hull) for a big container of candy and a box of chocolate cake mix. They tried to get a tub of ice cream out of it too, but Craig and Leann drive a hard bargain. So, the 4 of them spent 2 hours in the water, not a bad deal for True Blue V! Afterward, they told me they also got cans of 7up and that Craig said he’d also get them the ice cream next time we’re in town. Softie. Anyway, we are still anchored off Nuku, and Carolina and I had a snorkel here just off Exodus yesterday afternoon. Not too spectacular, but I did see a small turtle, so that was my highlight. I’m hoping to run later this morning, since there is a small village nearby and a “road” that runs back to Port Maurelle. Love and miss you all, -D.
A photo from my morning paddleHeading out for a snorkel excursion with Lady CarolinaRacing away from the anchorageBrenden just relaxing as we search for a good spotWe found the perfect spotThe boys had to stop and explore a cave on the way back. I babysat the dinghy.Yet another cave that must be explored
Logbook – August 23, 2014 (Neiafu to Anchorage #2)
Passage Log Highlights
1650 Engines on
1653 Depart
1728 Engines off Anchorage #2
Daily Notes
D – run/walk to Mt. Talau then market day
Internet afternoon at Aquarium Cafe
Move to Anchorage #2
That’s what Exodus is missing… a HELICOPTER!Anchorage #2 is in the bay south from NeiafuA close up of Anchorage #2, you can see the causeway
Email to family and friends dated August 23, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Back near Neiafu
We spent night before last back on a mooring ball at the town of Neiafu. We left the kids on board to cook mac and cheese and hot dogs and headed out with Steve and Carolina for a pub crawl. We hit 3 different bar/restaurants before we learned that the town pretty much shuts down by 9:30. It was a great time, and the only thing that would have made it more fun is if Yi and Johnny were still here. Last night we moved barely a half mile away out of the “hustle and bustle” of Neiafu to an anchorage towards the end of the bay. While I was drinking my coffee just now I was greeted by a pod of whales as they swam past the boat twice. I can still see them now slowly making their way out of the bay. I’m surprised they even come in here. Luckily it’s too early for them to start getting harrassed by all the commercial “dive with whales” operators. That’s all for now, Happy Sunday to all. -D.
August 24, 2014 (Anchorage #2)
Daily Notes
Whales in the early am – good show with morning coffee
Dinghy up the causeway @ low tide, explored the reef & tidepools on the other side. Met Paul and his dogs
A morning whale paradeWe dinghied up the causeway at low tideI loved all these shells, but they weren’t exactly good for collecting. They each came with a bonus hermit crab.Brenden was rinsing dishes on the back step when he called, “Mom, come take a picture of this….”… here’s the view he was talking about.
August 25, 2014 (Anchorage #2 to Neiafu)
Passage Log Highlights
1502 Engines on
1510 Depart
1534 Engines off Neiafu mooring ball
Daily Notes
Filled propane tanks
Walked through town to the fresh water cave (Veimumuni Cave). More reef and tide pool exploring
A yard full of piggies!A yard full of piggies!St. Joseph’s Cathedral
Logbook – August 26, 2014 (Neiafu)
Daily Notes
D – lots of shopping
T – started working on Port engine
D/B – Hike up to Mt. Talau
Dinner @ Marina Wine Bar w/ LC, TBV, and Knot Tied Down (Steve & Tony)
Brenden and I hiked up to Mt. Talau, which is the highest point in Vava’uThe views from the topStopping for a drink and a snackPiglets!All the kids walking home from schoolYi’s not the only one who can answer a trivia question for a free drink
Anchorage #32 is on the North side of the small island of Euakafa
Logbook – August 18, 2014 (Anchorage #11 to Anchorage #32)
Passage Log Highlights
1105 Engines on
1115 Depart
1212 Engines off #32
Daily Notes
Afternoon snorkel @#32
Tim & J went ashore, met Bret & Robin
Depart Anchorage #11 August 18 at 1115 – Arrive Anchorage #32 at 1212 (looks like we didn’t have the inReach on the whole way)Raising the mainUnfurling the GenoaSomething interesting on the port sideAnchorage #32 is on the North side of the small island of EuakafaAt anchorage #32
Email to family and friends dated August 18, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Whalesong
Just thought I’d share that we were awoken this morning by the sounds of humpback whales. Amazing. You can hear them loud and clear down in the hulls but not so well up above, so it seems we all stayed in bed a bit longer than usual. -D.
Email to family and friends dated August 18, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Tongan Feast
Yesterday we had a fantastic day at the Tongan feast. It was a lunch time all you can eat buffet, and when we arrived they were cooking two small pigs on spits, and drinks were flowing from the bar. The feast food was mediocre at best, but the overall day was a wonderful experience. We met some new people and enjoyed live Tongan music and kava drinking while relaxing in the grass all afternoon. They day was capped off with whiskey tasting, game playing, and general merry making on Exodus. We met a new kid boat and invited them over as well, so hopefully they didn’t the the wrong idea of us since it was one of our more crazy nights. Their boat is called Sudoeste, and they have a 9 year old daughter named Emily who played legos all evening with Brenden and Joel. (Fluenta, they said to tell you guys hi!) We moved anchorages today and everyone is off snorkeling while I enjoy some peace and quiet and maybe get this crazy messed up boat in a little bit of order. Tim and Johnny went ashore when we got here and met the people who live there and got permission to use their beach for a bonfire tonight, so we are looking forward to some marshmallow roasting. Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – August 19, 2014 (Anchorage #32 to Port Maurelle)
Passage Log Highlights
1440 Engines on
1450 Depart
1551 Arrive Port Maurelle
Daily Notes
Tides lo – 8:45a, hi – 2:55p
Market report = what veggies are at the market
Hike to the tomb of the Tongan Princess
T/Y/J – Swallow’s cave again
D/B paddle boarding
Bonfire – roasted hot dogs, potatos, etc.
We headed to the beach for a hike to the tomb of a Tongan princess, and we were greeted by Willow the dogBrenden with Willow and FinnFinn leads the wayTrail? Who needs a trail?The tomb of the Tongan PrincessThe view from the topWillow didn’t want us to leavePhoto of the year – Yi at Swallow’s CaveBonfire and BBQ back at Port Maurelle
Logbook – August 20, 2014 (Port Maurelle to Neiafu to Port Maurelle)
Passage Log Highlights
Depart
1113 Arrive Neiafu mooring ball #2
1549 Engines on
Depart Neiafu
1611 SB engine off, genoa
1646 SB engine on
1718 Engines off Port Maurelle
Daily Notes
Tides – lo – 9:40a, hi – 3:55p
Lunch @ Aquarium cafe
T/A – bonfire w/ LC & Sudoeste
Yi won the Aquarium Cafe trivia question of the dayBye to Yi and Johnny – it was so much fun having them on board
Logbook – August 21, 2014 (Port Maurelle)
Daily Notes
D – trail run. T/S/K & Jonathon from Sudoeste – spearfishing. Nada.
Boys play on the beach all day w/ LC & Emily
D – solo afternoon snorkel
T/S – night lobstering
Yay, we have a gopro again! Thanks Yi and Johnny!
Email to family and friends dated August 21, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Elusive Lobsters
Tim and Steve went out lobstering (why yes, that IS a word) again last night, and those pesky lobsters continue to be elusive. In fact, all of the fish are proving to be elusive. Tim has speared but one fish, a tasty one, which we have identified as a sweet lips, but still only one. Gone are the days in Mexico where I never wondered if I should take something out of the freezer for dinner if the boys were out spearfishing. They ALWAYS came back with something, and usually enough to feed the whole anchorage. On the bright side, the snorkeling is absolutely amazing. So clear and tons of fish (small ones, not big enough to spear, of course). I snorkled just off our boat yesterday along the side of the anchorage and it was spectacular. We bought a wildlife guide to Tonga in town, so I had a little extra fun trying to identify the fish I saw, and sometimes I need Brenden’s help (he just has a knack for all things of the sea). I have no idea what our plan is for today other than to keep up with the schoolwork which got a little lax while Yi and Johnny were here. Love and miss you all, -D.
Depart Hunga August 16 at 1010 – Arrive Anchorage #11 at 1346
Logbook – August 16, 2014 (Hunga Near Anchorage #13 to Anchorage #11)
Passage Log Highlights
1010 Engines on, depart Hunga
1346 Arrive #11
Daily Notes
Dinghy fishing @#13, trolling on passage, spearfishing @ #11
Steve – 1 lobster, T – 1 fish
The geography of Anchorage #11Whales on passage to anchorage #11Tim speared a sweet lipsAnchorage #11 – Can you spot the floating art gallery, cleverly named the “Ark Gallery”?
Email to friends and family dated August 16, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Vava’u is Fantastic
We are really enjoying ourselves in Vava’u so far, and I think we’ve been able to show Yi and Johnny a really good time. The snorkeling is amazing, and they’ve even been able to swim with Humpback Whales! Today we are going for a Tongan feast on the beach, and we are all really looking forward to that. It’s overcast today, which is a bummer after so many sunny days, but maybe it will burn off for us. Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – August 17, 2014 (Anchorage #11)
Daily Notes
Tongan feast
Whiskey tasting
Met Suouest – Jonathon, Kerry, Emily
Sporting my Tongan Feast necklaceHeading to The Tongan Feast (with empty bellies)The menu at the Tongan FeastChillin in the grass after feasting, listening to Tongan musicYikesPlaying a little UnoA Canadian, an American, and an Australian walk up to a Kava barDrink the Kava Kyle…Good boyBrenden made his own bow and arrow
Logbook – August 14, 2014 (Port Maurelle to Hunga)
Passage Log Highlights
0928 Engines on
0935 Depart
0959 SB engine off. Genoa + port engine
SB engine on
1247 Arrive Hunga (near #13)
Daily Notes
Lobster diving
Port Maurelle in the morningFrom this perspective you can’t tell that Exodus could probably fit underneath hemispheresDepart Port Maurelle August 14 at 0935 – Arrive Hunga (Near #13) at 1247Steve and Kyle in the dinghy leading the way through a narrow and shallow passWhew, we made it throughHunga Lagoon
Logbook – August 15, 2014 (Hunga)
Daily Notes
Private beach & surfing
Lobster bisque
Game night
Heading out for a surf dayA shot of the Blue Lagoon Resort (it’s their private beach, so we asked permission to hang out and surf)Brenden enjoying a spot where the swell from both sides of the island meetAlex didn’t have much luck catching the surfOf course Joel and Brenden are digging in the sandYi’s out there trying tooHeading out for an afternoon hike (near anchorage #13)Sea star tentaclesA blue footed hermit crabThe guys went out looking for lobsters and came back with this lonely crab. He fed all six of us in a “crab bisque” prepared by Chef Johnny
Safe arrival cocktails on shore, chase back by mosquitos
Ui here
The view from The Aquarium Cafe while waiting for Yi and JohnnyTim and JohnnyDepart Neiafu August 12 at 1539 – Arrive Port Maurelle at 1704A drive by (in Exodus) of Swallows CavePort Maurelle AnchoragePort Maurelle AnchorageOur safe arrival cocktails at Port MaurelleThe girls from s/v Ui and their shell garden
Email to family and friends dated August 12, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Visit from Friends
Our friends from home, Yi and Johnny (who used to do the Catalina charters with us), are here to visit. They arrived yesterday, and after a nice long lunch at The Aquarium Cafe and a quick walk into town for beer and fruit/veg, we motor sailed around the corner about 6 miles to an anchorage called Port Mourelle. There are 4 other boats here, 5 if you count the fact that one is a mega yacht and their “tender” is a full on fishing boat. Our German friends with the two girls that we met in Suwarrow are here, and we did a shore excursion in the evening and brought the girls along with us, so Brenden had some dig in the sand buddies. However, these girls did not just dig, they decorated. In what seemed like just a few minutes they had made a beautiful little shell garden. After we got chased off the beach by the mosquitoes, we seared up the last of our yellow fin for a huge tuna feast, and today we are going to do some cave snorkeling. The sun looks like it might come out for us today, so keep your fingers crossed. Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – August 13, 2014 (Port Maurelle)
Daily Notes
Whales in the channel! Chastised by tour boat when Yi tries to swim with them
The super mega yacht “Hemispheres” had the rainbow connection one morningThe spearfishing expeditionBrenden and Johnny being towed behind the dinghy – looking for Mariners CaveTrying to find Mariners Cave (the entrance is underwater)Swallows CaveLooking up from inside Swallows CaveInside Swallows CaveNot exactly manicured toes at poolside, but it’s my kind of gigDinghy Fishing!A mama and her babyDCIM100GOPROOK, now time for some serious rum tasting. There are no other pictures from this evening, and that’s probably a good thing.
Time change, rather day change – jump ahead 24 hours
Making our way into the Vava’u Island Group to NeiafuOn a mooring ball in NeiafuFor our Vava’u safe arrival cocktail, Tim and I did a taste test between Captain Morgan Private Stock and Zaya.Enjoying the local brew
Email to family and friends dated August 8, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Arrived in Vava’u
After our worst passage yet, we arrived today in Vava’u, Tonga, safe and sound on a mooring ball. The passages just keep getting worse, and I wonder how it was ever possible that I spent 22 days at sea without (too much) complaining. We crossed the international dateline on the way here, so we completely missed August 7 (sorry Danna, no birthday for you!) We were the third boat in the queue to clear in this morning, and they tried to tell us to tie up to the container ship dock that had these huge rubber tire fenders that would have hit just above our deck, so we passed on that and waited until we could tie up along side a fishing boat with a very kind and helpful crew. The officials from customs, health, and quarantine came to our boat and after a sufficient amount of snacks, fees, and other things they asked for we were free to go and then we tied up to mooring ball and walked to the immigration office. The immigration official did not ask for anything, and he was very pleasant. Then Tim and I enjoyed our “safe arrival cocktails” onshore, and the local brew is not half bad. Tomorrow there is an “agricultural fair” that is all the buzz. I don’t know what an “agricultural fair” means in Tonga, but the King of Tonga is supposed to be there, so we won’t miss it. Love and miss you all, -D.
D/T – stop for drinks @ Marina Wine Bar then Mango Cafe
LC over for drinks after dinner
The anchorage in Neiafu (the main town) on a gray and rainy day.Piggies are everywhere in NeiafuThe King of Tonga is here!The high school in Neiafu where we went to the agricultural fairThe marching band came out and played a tune or twoThe agricultural fairThe King of Tonga checking out the agricultural fair. We weren’t sure who was the king, but we figure the only guy with someone holding an umbrella over him was a safe bet.The King, doing a little shoppingThe things hanging are actually dried octopuses
Logbook – August 10, 2014 (Neiafu)
Daily Notes
Boat day. T/Steve fixed SB exit macerator. School & cleaning
Email to family and friends dated August 10, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Still in Neiafu
The weather is still wet and gray, and it seems like forever since we’ve had a nice sunny day. But the wind isn’t bad and the anchorage is very flat, so it’s pleasant, all the same. We went to the agricultural fair on Saturday, and note to self… when someone tells you the fair is at the high school it would be good to see if there is more than one high school in town. Yes, we walked all over trying to find it, but at least we got to see more of the town. The fair itself was like any street fair in Hermosa Beach, for example. Vendors selling all sorts of food, handicrafts, jewelry, clothing, artwork, everything. Including whole raw octopuses (or is it octopi?) and sharks, so maybe not quite like Hermosa Beach. By the time we got there, though, they had shut down all the shopping for the ceremony which included speeches/prayers (in Tongan) by all sorts of important looking stately officials, including the King himself. Afterwards, the King and his entourage walked around the shopping stalls and greeted all of his minions. We crossed the security lines a little before we were supposed to since the King was still touring around, but the security guards just watched us and didn’t stop us. Not exactly the secret service. We enjoyed some tasty cinnamon rolls and vanilla ice cream, and then made our way back to town. Yesterday, it rained all day, and we didn’t leave the boat. The boys and I did school and cleaned while Tim and Steve (Lady Carolina) fixed one of our macerator pumps, so we are back to a two hole boat, yay! We have friends arriving tomorrow from the U.S. so today will be more cleaning and shopping. Love and miss you all, -D.
We came to Pago Pago mostly to provision, and it’s been raining pretty much non-stop, but we are still enjoying ourselves.
Depart Suwarrow July 26 at 1012 – Arrive Pago Pago July 29 at 1615
Logbook – July 26, 2014 (Suwarrow to Pago Pago)
Passage Log Highlights
1004 Engines on
1012 Depart Suwarrow
1039 P engine off
1158 SB engine off. Main + genoa
1842 Main (2 reefs) + genoa (1 reef). TWS 21.1 kts SE
No, it’s not our usual clan, but it’s fun to be part of a convoy again
Logbook – July 27, 2014 (Suwarrow to Pago Pago)
Passage Log Highlights
0502 Main (2 reefs) + genoa (2 reefs). TWS 26.1 kts SE
1819 Genoa only. TWS 17.1 kts NE
1900 Genoa and Genniker
2053 P engine on
Logbook – July 28, 2014 (Suwarrow to Pago Pago)
Passage Log Highlights
0000 Genoa (1 reef) + P engine. TWS 16.3 kts SE.
0021 P engine off. Squalls everywhere.
0336 SB engine on
0540 SB engine off
0550 Genniker only. TWS 10.5 kts E
0649 P engine on, no sails
1012 P engine off, SB engine on
Oh crap! (The pink blobs are squalls all around us)Gray and dreary passage
Email to family and friends dated July 28, 2014
Subject: Exodus – En Route
We had way more wind yesterday and through the night than forecast, so we made some excellent time, but now it’s tailed off a bit and clocked around to our stern so we have slowed down considerable, but still doing over 5 kts. At this pace we would arrive at Pago Pago just after midnight tomorrow night, but we expect the wind to continue to die, so it might all work out OK for a Tuesday morning arrival. If the winds persist or even pick up we will likely keep going to Apia, Western Samoa. The passage has been good, even if lumpy and bumpy. On the radio net last evening all of our monohull friends were really complaining about how uncomfortable it was, so either they are just bigger whiners or catamarans ARE more comfortable. At least in these conditions. Even though the seas have been bigger this time, Brenden and I aren’t feeling nearly as bad as on our passage to Suwarrow. It’s not always about the size of the seas, but the direction and frequency. Random, high freqency, beam on swells are very uncomfortable in Exodus. Our thoughts go out to Fluenta who is also on passage right now (to Papeete). Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – July 29, 2014 (Suwarrow to Pago Pago)
Passage Log Highlights
0712 SB engine + genoa. TWS 7.1 kts SE
0804 SB engine off. P engine on.
0828 P engine off
Time zone change – 1 hr (UTC – 11)
1250 Engines on – genoa & genniker torn
1507 VHF call to Port Control – received permission to enter harbor & anchor
1615 Engines off Pago Pago
Pago Pago is the capital of American SamoaPago Pago harborPago Pago anchorageWhen the seas are rough, the sink is a good place to store things that are normally on the counter, so they don’t roll around.Entering Pago Pago harborThe rain is washing all kinds of crap into the bayReunited with Lady Carolina!This boat was having trouble setting anchor and it turned out they were fouled by a Christmas tree
I snapped a few photos while walking to the immigration office to clear in
Email to family and friends dated July 30, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Pago Pago
We arrived in Pago Pago yesterday afternoon, but we haven’t seen much of it yet. It was rainy and foggy when we arrived, so we just spent the afternoon/evening hanging out on the boat. After motoring for over a day, we finally got some wind yesterday, and, well, sometimes you just have to be careful what you wish for. By the time we passed by the east tip of the island we had 25-30 kts of wind, 4-5 meter seas (the biggest we’ve seen since our San Felipe passage), pouring down rain, and fog. And to top it off we had a 2+ kt current pushing us north making it hard to round the island. But the harbor is well protected, so once inside you hardly knew the conditions were so bad out there. Our anchor dug in on the first try, which I guess is pretty rare. The bottom of this harbor is very fouled up with junk as a result of a devastating tsunami in 2009 (I think, but you people with your instant access to internet can just google it if you like.) A boat that arrived just after us dropped their anchor and brought it back up and had a Christmas tree on it. Today we will clear in to the country and see what this place is all about. Love and miss you all, -D.
Logbook – July 31, 2014 (Pago Pago)
Daily Notes
Rented car. Cost U Less & groceries. Pouring rain.
Anchor dragged @ 4am
Logbook – August 1, 2014 (Pago Pago)
Daily Notes
Reanchored
If there’s anywhere we need the anchor alarm set, it’s here!
Email to family and friends dated August 1, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Anchor dragging
I’m up early this morning, which is nothing new. I’m often up early. But this morning I’m up because our anchor alarm went off at about 4am. Seconds after Tim got up to check I heard the engines fire up, so I new it wasn’t good, and I jumped up myself. Yes, we were, in fact, dragging. Pago Pago harbor is notorious for this, but after being set pretty well for a few days we had relaxed a bit, and this just reminds us that we can never fully let our guard down. Tim and I even left the boys for several hours today to rent a car and hit a couple grocery stores, including a large warehouse costco type store. I shudder to think about the boys having to deal with that alone. Although, our instructions to them were if you start dragging, turn the engines on, hold position, and call Lady Carolina. Of course, after those instructions the boys proceeded to leave the boat and go play on another boat (we met another kid boat here called Wildlife). So, if Exodus had dragged yesterday afternoon instead of in the middle of the night she would have been totally unattended. Yikes! It’s still very rainy and gloomy here, and the forecast indicates it will continue for at least a couple days. We’ve got a few more things to accomplish here including laundry, sail repair (we tore both genoa and genniker on the last passage), and searching for decent rum. We have the rental car until 4pm today, so it will be a busy day. Weather doesn’t look good for heading to Tonga yet anyway, so we will likely not leave until at least Monday, possibly Tuesday or Wednesday. We have internet here, so feel free to shoot an email back, no character limit or anything. 🙂 Love and miss you all, -D.
After dragging anchor, Lady Carolina ends up moored to the industrial sized mooring “ball”S/V Mahi Mahi has all their fenders out in case we drag into themThe “marina” in Pago PagoIn the distance is the Starkist Tuna Plan, nice smellThe boys cleaning the cockpit floor before guests arriveAlex’s 13th Birthday!!!BBQ’ing some burgers for Alex’s bdayThe giant Oreo is becoming a tradition
Logbook – August 4, 2014 (Pago Pago)
Daily Notes
Alex Bday! Lunch at McD’s, bus ride to Costco
My view from my run along the roadThe main square in Pago PagoA bus ride out to the Cost U Less (Costco type warehouse store). The buses are cheap, and they blare the pop and hip hop music.Apparently, we were on the monkey busA view from the bus
Email to family and friends dated August 4, 2014
Subject: Exodus – More anchor dragging + Alex’s 13th
Night before last, there was a lot of drama in this anchorage. I guess that’s what the combination of 40+ knot winds and terrible holding will provide. In the afternoon, I was at the laundromat happily doing 10 loads of laundry for $3 each (a nice change from French Polynesia where laundry was between $20-$30 per load). Steve and Carolina joined me, and this was the first time they’d been off the boat together in 9 days. Their anchor had held firm during the recent blow, so they felt confident leaving Kyle and Joel to manage the shop. They weren’t on shore 10 min when they got the radio call from Kyle that they were dragging, so of course, Steve was off in a flash. I had my handheld VHF so I passively monitored what was going on… they couldn’t reanchor where they were because the boat in front of them had dragged back, so there wasn’t room to either pull forward again or let out more chain. So, they tried to find another spot to anchor, and in the end, they tied up to this huge mooring drum, and Tim and Alex were over helping them get everything secured. Then, I can hear a one sided conversation Steve: “Brenden, can you start the engines and idle forward?” Steve: “OK, Brenden, Alex is on his way over to help.” OF COURSE! Exodus started dragging while Tim and Alex were helping Lady Carolina and Brenden was home alone. About 10 min later I hear Steve say, “Tim, how are things going over there?” So, I knew Tim was back at the boat. By the time I was back on the boat it was regularly blowing over 35 kts, and Exodus and Lady Carolina were not the only boats dragging. Another Lagoon called for help on the radio because they were dragging and they couldn’t get their anchor up. Tim went over and helped them and they ended up tieing up to a tug boat at the dock. In the back of the anchorage an unattended boat dragged passed another boat and started dragging them along by their rudder. They got that untangled but the unattended boat kept going towards the rocks. There were calls to the harbor master to get help with the unattended boat, but they never answered. It blew hard all night along with torrential rain, so no one got much sleep. Last evening couldn’t have been more different. The wind stopped, the rain stopped, and the sun even came out a bit. We had a BBQ on Exodus to celebrate Alex’s 13th birthday with Lady Carolina, Wildlife, and Novae. Today is Alex’s birthday, so we now have a teenager on board. Love and miss you all, -D.
Email to family and friends dated August 4, 2014
Subject: Exodus – Happy Birthday Alex
So, Alex is 13 today. Help us all! Pago Pago has been fun for the kids, even if it’s been a little stressful for the adults due to the weather and the anchor dragging and all. In addition to Lady Carolina there are 3 other kid boats here with kids in the same age range, so they’ve been having a lot of fun together. Tomorrow morning we will be leaving for Tonga, and we are really looking forward to it. -D.
Gresham Family Exodus 