One of the perpetual highlights of the summer had to be all of our dinners and evenings on the Exodus forward deck (aka “the net”) with Lady Carolina. We potlucked together more often than we not, and usually one of us was doing the Southbound Evening radio net at 6pm, so we usually started right after that ended. We became like one big family, comfortable enough to try new recipes on each other, some with success, some not. The four boys would always do dishes together while the adults retreated to the net where it was a bit cooler. One night we were out there talking until past 1 am! One night in the logbook it reads, “had a plate full of fish for dinner with Lady Carolina,” and I had to laugh when reading it. We had been having safe arrival cocktails together, and dinnertime was approaching, and neither of us really had anything prepared, but we wanted to keep hanging out so we just cooked up a big plate of fish. That’s it, that’s all we had for dinner. A “plate full of fish.” Sometimes, the company is more important
The anchorage called Alcatraz wasn’t in the guidebook, but we had heard about it from other cruisers, so we decided to make a pitstop on the way from Puerto Refugio back down to La Gringa.
Logbook – September 11, 2013 (Puerto Refugio to Alcatraz)
Passage Log Highlights
0910 Depart Puerto Refugio
1604 Arrive Ensenada Alcatraz
Daily Notes
Survey the little cove, fish on, no helm control
Dorado!
Dinks on Exodus w/ LC and TBV. LC stayed for dinner.
Religious discussion on the net – boys to LC to watch a movie
Puerto Refugio to Ensenada AlcatrazOn passage from Puerto Refugio to Alcatraz both Exodus and Lady Carolina caught Dorados so we had to pull up next to each other to compare and snap photos. Here’s Tim with his.And here’s Kyle with his.The geography of Alcatraz
I thought I’d add this section and use it from time to time to share some of the more embarrassing and not so glamorous aspects of the cruising lifestyle.
So, yeah, I pee in a bucket. Let’s just get that one right out of the way.
I suppose that requires some explanation, and to sum it up: power. Everything comes back to power. Our head plumbing uses freshwater (which is somewhat atypical, many boats use saltwater) and we get fresh water by running our water maker, which requires power. When we had a few socked in days in a row due to tropical storms on the outside of Baja and our solar production fell off dramatically, I made an evaluation of our water usage and concluded that my toilet flushing was using too high a percentage of our water. Being boys and all Tim, Alex, and Brenden just go off the back of the boat, and I must admit in more remote anchorages I have done that too, but usually it’s not feasible. So, I started just dipping into the water down the swim step, but then I was wet all the time, which was a pain, and it was a little too time consuming to change in and out of a swimsuit every time I had to go. So, I recalled another boat telling me that they all pee in a bucket because their tank was so small and that they would pour the bucket down the sink. Gross. That was a show stopper for me. But being a catamaran it was an option to just take the bucket out to the back swim step a few times a day to empty it. So, problem solved. I guess.
So, those of you who think we are living the dream, just remember that the dream does not come without sacrifices. Like peeing in a bucket.
I would like to say that we loved Puerto Refugio, but the no-see-ums really put a damper on our enjoyment here. We also had an awesome view of convection all around us but never had any lightning right there in the anchorage with us.
Logbook – September 6, 2013 (La Ventana to Puerto Refugio)
Passage Log Highlights
0910 Depart La Ventana
1136 Spinnaker
1439 Genoa only (15 knots TWS)
1627 Arrive Puerto Refugio
1900 Re-anchor
Daily Notes
Beautiful sail up to Puerto Refugio w/ LC, Dazzler, Chara. Spinnaker run most of the way
Everyone in the water quickly (hot)
Small bird visitor while we were anchoring. Boys got a kick out of it. Fed it chips.
13-foot tide swing
No-see-ums, so we moved anchor spots further from shore
Kyle & Joel over for dinner & a movie
Thunder & lightning from multiple directions, not too much wind. Large swells in the night.
From La Ventana to Puerto Refugio was a nice day sail, and we even busted out the spinnakerThis is Volcan Colorado which is on Isla Coronado (Isla Smith) which we passed along the way.We had a gorgeous sail up to Puerto Refugio. It was a spinnaker run most of the way. We caravanned with Lady Carolina, Charra, and Dazzler. This is Lady Carolina with her colors flying!Lady Carolina and CharaApproaching Puerto RefugioThe geography of the northern tip of Isla Angel de La GuardaThe geography of the northern tip of Isla Angel de La GuardaThe geography of the northern tip of Isla Angel de La GuardaThe geography of Puerto Refugio on the northern tip of Isla Angel de La Guarda. There are three lobes to anchor in and this time we chose the middle lobe.
Logbook – September 7, 2013 (Puerto Refugio)
Daily Notes
Shifty winds
D – unsuccessful paddle due to wind & chop
T/B – spearfish
Potluck on Exodus w/ LC, Dazzler, Chara, True Blue V
Email to family and friends dated September 7, 2013
Subject: Puerto Refugio
We sailed up to Puerto Refugio yesterday, and it was a fantastic sail. We “caravaned” with 3 other boats and we all had our spinnakers out because the wind was almost directly behind us. This anchorage is beautiful, except for the no-see-um bugs that are eating me alive. We moved our anchor location to be further from shore hoping that would help. It’s hard to tell since I’m already covered in bites. We had quite the thunder and lightning show last night, and although I never turned on the instruments, I’m pretty sure we didn’t see over 20 kt winds. The swell got pretty significant though, making it difficult to sleep. We plan to stay here a few days and head back down at our first North-ish wind opportunity. Alex’s ear is much better, but he’s still a little restless since he can’t swim or dive. Tim and Brenden are getting some pretty good one-on-one time though. The day before last when they went spearfishing Tim could tell that the current was pretty strong, so he had B stay in the dinghy while he checked it out, which was good because Brenden had to go pick him up! B raised the dinghy anchor, started the outboard, and drove over. If Alex were there, Alex would have had all the responsibility. I’m not sure what the plan is for today, but I’m going to have to get in the water soon!
Love and miss you all,
-D.
Logbook – September 8, 2013 (Puerto Refugio)
Daily Notes
Tim tried to stern anchor fo the first time
D paddle – turned back due to lightning and thunder
D – made yogurt and bread
Boys – lots of lego playing w/ Joel
Dinner w/ LC on Exodus – Carolina made spaghetti, D made clam chowder & bread
Convection in the distanceTrue Blue V with a convection backdrop
Logbook – September 9, 2013 (Puerto Refugio)
Daily Notes
D – paddleboard to the window
T – defrosted the fridge & permanently installed fan
Leftover clam chowder & another loaf of fresh bread
Drinks on Exodus w/ LC, Dazzler, Chara
Lady Carolina at Puerto RefugioThis size fish is pretty much what they bring back all the time, unless we restrict them to only Yellowtail.Brenden poses in the pink hue of the sunset
Logbook – September 10, 2013 (Puerto Refugio)
Daily Notes
I am an anti-itch gel junkie
Email to family and friends dated September 11, 2013
Subject: Heading South
We will be on the move today back towards the BLA area. The wind is supposed to blow from the north for the next several days, so we will probably settle in at La Gringa until we run out of fresh veggies, then it will be back to the village. I’ve started making bread, and it’s been a huge hit. When I come up to the states I will have to load up on little packets of yeast. I also made clam chowder with fresh clams, and I probably mentioned this before, but I make my own yogurt too. We haven’t been able to enjoy Puerto Refugio as much as I would like because of the bugs. I am looking forward to being in a bug free anchorage for awhile.
Love and miss you all,
-D.
While still at home we put together a pretty comprehensive medical kit. Thanks to Uncle Mike we have enough sutures to sew up a small village when we get to the south pacific, and thanks to Mom we have antibiotics purchased in Mexico (where you can get them without a prescription). The boys’ pediatrician actually gave us prescriptions for azithromycin as well. Luckily we haven’t had to use much from the medical kit, but after a dive one day Tim developed a pretty severe earache. I checked inside (using the ENT scope, also provided by Uncle Mike) and it was definitely inflamed and pussy, so I started him on Cipro right away. Shortly after, Alex’s ear flared up as well, so I started him on Azithromycin since I felt better giving him a drug that I knew for sure was the right dosage amount for him. They both got better and were cleared for diving again within a week. Unfortunately, Alex got another infection, or maybe this one never cleared up all the way. Of course, it flared up just hours after we left BLA village for La Ventana, and he had trouble sleeping that night due to the pain. Since there is a medical clinic in the village, we went back the next morning. We asked Kyle from Lady Carolina to go with us to the clinic since he’s fluent in Spanish, and the doctor gave us amoxicillin and ear drops, and it did the trick, albeit Alex was out of commission for diving for 10+ days. It is a free clinic but they accept donations of anything you want to give. I gave her 200 pesos, which is less than $20, and at the time I had no idea if that was the right amount, and in hindsight I wish I had given more, since the treatment was effective and all.
Like I said, we are well prepared for worse mishaps, but luckily to this point we haven’t needed it
Isla La Ventana is a small Island very near BLA village to the NE. We didn’t stay here very long, and there was sort of a damper on activities in that Alex came down with an ear infection. We actually went to the village and back just to go to the medical clinic. Tim and Brenden did a little spearfishing, but Alex and I just hung around the boat.
Logbook – September 3, 2013 (BLA Village to La Ventana)
Passage Log Highlights
1505 Depart BLA Village
1817 Arrive La Ventana
Daily Notes
Left BLA Village – sail to La Gringa – D tacked too early
Decided to stop at La Ventana
Chubasco warning – lots of lightning – winds picked up about 11:30 pm
Mostly high teens, some low to mid-20s, gusts to 27-30. No rain. No issues.
BLA VIllage to La Ventana. In the logbook it says that I tacked too early, so that mush be that little dogleg.The geography of La VentanaA little evening school up on the foredeck
Logbook – September 4, 2013 (La Ventana to BLA Village to La Ventana)
Kyle went with us to help translate. Payment is by donation.
Gave up Amoxycillan & ear drops
Quickly back to Ventana
Tim/B – spearfish for dinner – Sierra (totally forgot!!!)
Alex’s ear got worse & worse, couldn’t eat dinner
Email to family and friends dated September 4, 2013
Subject: Alex ear infection
We left BLA village yesterday headed back to La Gringa but the wind died and we ended up staying at a great little anchorage off one of the small islands called Isla Ventana. Last night there was a chubasco alert. Basically, there was convection all up and down the mainland and in our area it had made it about 1/3 to 1/2 way across the sea by 8pm. We prepped for the worst, but luckily didn’t see any winds over 27 kts. Back at the village they saw high 30s and a bit of swell, but not too bad either. The lightening seemed to be all around us so I thought we were going to get nailed for sure, but it seems we escaped again. We went back to the village today, because Alex’s ear ache flared up yesterday and was worse this morning. We had self treated an ear infection with azythromicin a couple weeks ago, so since there’s a clinic at the village we decided it couldn’t hurt to get some help. The doctor there spoke a bit of English and we took Kyle (13 yrs old from Lady Carolina) with us, who speaks pretty good Spanish, so we got along pretty well. She gave us amoxycillan and ear drops, so hopefully that clears it up. It is a free clinic but they accept donations of anything you want to give. I gave them 200 pesos, which is less than $20, and I have no idea if that’s enough… I guess if the treatment is successful I can always go back and give them more. The worst part of all this is Alex can’t dive or swim. Tim and Brenden are our spearfishing and Alex is stuck here with mom. I offered to play a game with him but he’s deeply entrenched in the 3rd book in the hunger games series, so he’s not interested.
Maybe he’d play if Grandma were here.
Love and miss you all.
-D.
Logbook – September 5, 2013 (La Ventana)
Daily Notes
Alex had a rough night. Up at 4am for more advil & drops
Better when he woke up
So many turtles in this anchorage – they are loud mouth breathers
T/B spearfish – trigger fish for ceviche
A/Mom – game of rummy cube moving around the boat escaping the sun as the boat swings
This is looking NW out of the anchorage at Isla Flecha (on the left) and Isla Bota (smaller island in the distance on the right)The anchorage at La VentanaThe anchorage at La Ventana
We spent a couple days at BLA Village again, and we even celebrated Joel’s 9th birthday, but I have no photo evidence of any of it.
Logbook – September 1, 2013 (La Mona to BLA Village)
Passage Log Highlights
1103 Depart La Mona
1205 Arrive BLA Village
Daily Notes
Shopping & internet at BLA Village
Fish curry for dinner
Particularly hot and sweaty day
Facebook Post September 1, 2013
All caught up on photos. WAY behind on essays. We are spending the summer in the vicinity of Bahia de Los Angeles, and internet access is spotty. Hope everyone else is having a great summer too!
La Monat to BLA Village – a straight shot up the bay
Logbook – September 2, 2013 (BLA Village)
Daily Notes
Laundry + 3 tiendas – crusty towels / line dry
Joel’s birthday – Chicken dinner on LC
Treats & dinks on the beach
Daydreaming about being cold early in our trip.
Email to family and friends dated September 3, 2013
Subject: BLA Village
We’ve been at BLA village for a couple days and have had intermittent wifi access. I uploaded a bunch of new photos to Facebook in case you missed them. Joel (Lady Carolina) turned 9 yesterday and we had a great birthday celebration. It’s been especially hot and sticky the last couple days, or maybe I’m just getting fed up with the humidity. It’s been said that on or about Sept 10 the weather starts too cool off here, just a couple degrees at first but noticeable, and I can’t wait. We are going to try to leave the village this afternoon, but maybe not until tomorrow morning. Love and miss you all, -D.
The weather chased out of Ensenada el Pescador so we made a brief stop at BLA village and then hunkered down at La Mona. La Mona is the beach at the very southern end of Bahia de Los Angeles. La Gringa is at the Northern end and BLA Village is in the middle.
Logbook – August 28, 2013 (Ensenada el Pescador to BLA Village to La Mona)
Passage Log Highlights
1138 Depart el Pescador
1358 Arrive BLA Village
1720 Depart BLA Village
1846 Arrive La Mona
Daily Notes
Motorsail to BLA Village – bugs in the flour 😦
Anchor in La Mona. Fish chowder for dinner
Chubasco prep – No chubasco
Ensenada el Pescador to La Mona via BLA Village
Logbook – August 29, 2013 (La Mona)
Daily Notes
Light rain in the morning
Rain all day
Boys – PS3 and dinner on LC
Cloud cover = no bueno We rely on solar power to charge our batteries
Email to family and friends dated August 29, 2013
Subject: Rain, rain, rain
We moved to La Mona yesterday after a brief stop at BLA village for some provisions. I’ve been making a lot of bread so I needed some more flour, so I bought 2 big bags, and they were both infested with bugs. That’s the first time that’s happened to me so far in Mexico, but I was so disappointed. I still had a little bit of flour so I was still able to make fish chowder last night, but no bread. There was a lot of convection in the area last night so we were on our toes preparing for a Chubasco. We had quite a lightning show over the hill at our anchorage, but no Chubasco. It started raining early this morning and has been light and steady ever since. It smells like Arizona thunderstorms. I guess tropical storm Juliette is roaring up the pacific side of Baja today but she is supposed to head west once she gets to Turtle Bay, so this is about the worst we will see here.
Love and miss you all.
-D.
Rain doesn’t stop spearfishing
Sunset at La Mona
Rainbow in the rigging
Sunset at La Mona
Logbook – August 30, 2013 (La Mona)
Daily Notes
D – Paddle to scout beach – not a good running beach
T/B/Steve/Kyle Spearfishing w/ Craig from True Blue V. B got a leopard grouper
D/A/Carolina/Joel – dominoes, bird ran into the boat
Alex fell down the stairs and bruised his back. We are very lucky this wasn’t a whole lot worse
Brenden speared a leopard grouper
Some convection on the Baja peninsula
Logbook – August 31, 2013 (La Mona)
Daily Notes
Potluck on beach w/ True Blue V, Sea Note, Drifter, Entre Nous, LC
Email to family and friends dated August 31, 2013
Subject: Still at La Mona
We are still at La Mona, and we originally planned to head into BLA village today, since fresh veggies get delivered to the stores on Friday nights, but some other cruisers have organized a pot luck on the beach here tonight, so we are going to stay and head into the village tomorrow. At the last potluck someone made cake that Brenden thought was bread. He told me how good the bread was and that he had 5 pieces, then later when I tasted it I realized it was cake. So Brenden asked me to make something tonight that he knows what it is, so I’m just going to make pasta in red sauce. We taught Carolina and Joel Mexican train yesterday, and they like it, so I think that will be a common activity going forward. I made a trade matrix today for all my options for getting back for Danna’s wedding that includes everything from flying from Loreto to taking a bus to Mexicali or Tijuana. I Will let you guys know when we figure it out. In any case I will be renting a car at some point because I want to spend some time in LA too. Can’t wait.
Love and miss you guys,
-D.
The boys are generally able to entertain themselves with minimal electronics time, especially traveling in the company of Lady Carolina and their two boys. They swim, make up games, play on the beach, read Big Nate books over and over again, and they’ve even started writing their own fish guidebook because they have noticed that none of the fish books indicate the tastiness of a fish. However, sometimes an organized activity is what they need. So, while in Las Rocas, Tim organized a scavenger hunt for them. He made a list of things they had to find on the beach, split them into two teams (Alex/Joel, Brenden/Kyle, surprise, surprise) and sent them away. Here is the list:
Piece of small dead cactus
Something that could have been left by a
Something likely dropped by a panga
Plastic bottle (+1 if it has a lid on it)
Piece of styrofoam (must float)
Something red
Something blue
String or fishing line or net
Beer or soda can
Cool seashell
One bone from a fish (+1 if it’s a puffer)
Beach glass (worn so you can’t see through)
Bird feather over 10 inches long
Piece of driftwood
Very flat rock
Something metal
Piece of clothing
Sexy mermaid
A hat (yes, a hat)
Something that crawls
Alex and Joel won but by a very slim margin. They found a puffer fishbone, which pushed them over the top. I’m sad to say that neither team found the sexy mermaid, but Alex and Joel enjoyed their prize of M&Ms and Skittles nonetheless.
Stepping it up a notch, while we were at Ensenada el Pescador Tim and Steve put their heads together and made a treasure hunt with a series of clues for the boys to follow. They had to go talk to some guy on shore for their first clue, and it turns out he didn’t speak English as well as Tim and Steve thought, so he didn’t really understand what they asked him to tell the boys. They had to find a cactus with a red ribbon on it and use GPS locations and compass bearings. The last clue was in the water, they marked it by a weight attached to a float, and the note on the float said to dive down to get the next clue, but by the time the boys had read the note they had pulled up the weight, and then they had trouble finding the clue. In fact, they never found it. Tim and Steve dove for it and they couldn’t find it either. So, they had to tell them the prize was underneath Lady Carolina, and all four of them enjoyed a package of Oreos as the sun was setting.
Gresham Family Exodus 